If you don't crave the fanfare of a multi-course meal, but rather a glass of wine and a light dish, NYC's wine bars were made for you. Every day it seems that another excellent restaurant has spun off a cozy, informal lounge. Al Di La Vino and Bar @ Etats Unis spring to mind, as does the lovely little Enoteca I Trulli.
For some reason, I've always found I Trulli to be on the ascetic side (you won't find four-cheese-anything there). Perhaps the cuisine of Apulia is characteristically light? I don't know, but after all my holiday indulgences, I thought I should (temporarily) practice moderation.
I sat down at a wooden table inscribed with various wine labels, although there were still seats at the bar. While sipping a glass of Montepulciano, I noticed that the menu was a somewhat abbreviated version of the one next door. The ravioli of the day was chicken and mushroom, but I decided on a simple bowl of chewy cavatelli. The flour dumplings were very lightly sauced with broccoli rape, garlic and olive oil; a few toasted almond slivers provided an interesting crunch. Almost no sauce remained once I was finished with the generous portion of pasta.
Naturally, I wanted to see the dessert menu. I opted for the lightest selection - the assortment of sorbets. (Of course, I had to bring an additional dessert home for the hungry companion. A dense, warm chocolate hazelnut cake was greatly appreciated.) The sorbet dessert featured three flavors: fruity quince, tangy pear and bracing, almost bitter (in a good way!) grapefruit. A sprig of mint, some grapefruit sections and a homemade cookie garnished the bowl. Next time, I intend to sample one of the intriguing wine/dessert pairings; various wines are matched with pecorino, sweet pasta and homemade biscotti.
Enoteca I Trulli: 122 East 27th St., (212) 481-7372.
Wednesday, December 28, 2005
Thursday, December 22, 2005
BLT Fish
I thought that the transit strike would empty out the restaurants, but BLT Fish was as crowded as ever last night. My friends and I sat down a little before 10 p.m. We'd originally intended to eat at the downstairs BLT Fish Shack, but the menu from upstairs just spoke to us (as did the relative quietude).
Before our chosen selections, we were presented with an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon and finely minced apple with creme fraiche. We were then surprised by the deceptively humble cheddar-chive biscuits, which in my opinion, were one of the most memorable foods of the evening - moist, buttery and flaky all at once. I tore my steaming biscuit apart and slathered it with butter and maple syrup. As I think back on the amazing popovers at BLT Steak, I wonder if a BLT Bakery could be next for Tourondel.
The grilled Ecuadorian shrimp appetizer was sold out, so I ordered the spicy tuna tartare. It was similar to BLT Steak's rendition in that the square of tuna was served on a layer of avocado. However, it included a dollop of American caviar and was creamy with spicy mayonnaise. Its flavor did not include a hint of soy, but rather zesty lemon.
The menu, which features whole fish by the pound, included sea bass and Cantonese-style red snapper. But when I heard that only one Mediterranean loup de mer remained, I had to order it. My friends enjoyed the four plump grilled Maine sea scallops and the Alaskan king salmon steaks with tangy ginger ketchup and mild roasted garlic aioli. My own loup de mer arrived already filleted; although the fish was moist and rich-flavored, I prefer the spectacle of a whole fish. Not to mention, it fills the plate!
Our chosen sides were the Parmesan gnocchi, baked fennel, garlic mashed potatoes, garlic spinach and grilled asparagus. All were exceedingly rich! The asparagus was topped with thin slices of Parmesan, buttered bread crumbs decorated the fennel, and the gnocchi were half-an-inch deep in cream.
By now our stomachs were groaning. Naturally, I was the only one to order a dessert (the others were satisfied by the complimentary green apple cotton candy and petits fours). Deliberating between the lime millefeuilles and the caramelized meringue, I finally decided on the pumpkin tart. The accompanying ice cream provided an interesting cognitive dissonance; expecting a mouthful of cold ice cream, I was hit with a rush of hot spice. I would've loved to take home a pint of it! And it was only fitting that having begun my meal with a crunchy-topped tuna tartare, I would end it with a crunchy hazelnut-topped pumpkin tart.
Next stop, BLT Prime!
BLT Fish: 21 West 17th St., (212) 691-8888.
Before our chosen selections, we were presented with an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon and finely minced apple with creme fraiche. We were then surprised by the deceptively humble cheddar-chive biscuits, which in my opinion, were one of the most memorable foods of the evening - moist, buttery and flaky all at once. I tore my steaming biscuit apart and slathered it with butter and maple syrup. As I think back on the amazing popovers at BLT Steak, I wonder if a BLT Bakery could be next for Tourondel.
The grilled Ecuadorian shrimp appetizer was sold out, so I ordered the spicy tuna tartare. It was similar to BLT Steak's rendition in that the square of tuna was served on a layer of avocado. However, it included a dollop of American caviar and was creamy with spicy mayonnaise. Its flavor did not include a hint of soy, but rather zesty lemon.
The menu, which features whole fish by the pound, included sea bass and Cantonese-style red snapper. But when I heard that only one Mediterranean loup de mer remained, I had to order it. My friends enjoyed the four plump grilled Maine sea scallops and the Alaskan king salmon steaks with tangy ginger ketchup and mild roasted garlic aioli. My own loup de mer arrived already filleted; although the fish was moist and rich-flavored, I prefer the spectacle of a whole fish. Not to mention, it fills the plate!
Our chosen sides were the Parmesan gnocchi, baked fennel, garlic mashed potatoes, garlic spinach and grilled asparagus. All were exceedingly rich! The asparagus was topped with thin slices of Parmesan, buttered bread crumbs decorated the fennel, and the gnocchi were half-an-inch deep in cream.
By now our stomachs were groaning. Naturally, I was the only one to order a dessert (the others were satisfied by the complimentary green apple cotton candy and petits fours). Deliberating between the lime millefeuilles and the caramelized meringue, I finally decided on the pumpkin tart. The accompanying ice cream provided an interesting cognitive dissonance; expecting a mouthful of cold ice cream, I was hit with a rush of hot spice. I would've loved to take home a pint of it! And it was only fitting that having begun my meal with a crunchy-topped tuna tartare, I would end it with a crunchy hazelnut-topped pumpkin tart.
Next stop, BLT Prime!
BLT Fish: 21 West 17th St., (212) 691-8888.
Saturday, December 17, 2005
Gifts For The Gourmet
Are you still stumped for holiday gift ideas? Here's a present any foodie friend will appreciate: an international cooking class. The New School teaches everything from a "Roast Suckling Pig Workshop" to a "Paris Bistro Feast." But if your friend is more interested in dining out, the "BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE GREAT RESTAURANTS OF NEW YORK ™" series may be right up his alley. (Or, if his table manners are less than adequate, you might want to enroll him in "Dining Etiquette for Adults.")
Friday, December 16, 2005
A Regular's Lament
I was becoming increasingly devoted to the Japanese fusion cuisine of Komegashi (928 Broadway, (212) 475-3000). I loved the thick, rectangular slabs of grilled skewered fish and the unexpected flavors and textures in the maki. The Valrhona chocolate souffle accompanied by homemade maple, vanilla and orange-chocolate ice cream was a treat I looked forward to. And there was that "regular" treatment... when the waitress noticed that I'd left a piece of sushi untouched, she would ask the chef to prepare any fish I wanted to replace it.
So, you can imagine how disconcerted I was to learn that Komegashi will be no more after next week. The restaurant has been sold. Apparently, four out of five NYC restaurants close within five years. But I wonder, what is the reason for this particular failure? Were the guests expecting a more traditional Japanese cuisine? Were they put off by the beef jus/red wine/soy dipping sauce that was served with the skewered meats and fish, or did they not appreciate the sprinkling of sansho pepper atop the freshwater eel? It's true that the offerings were not inexpensive; a "foamed" miso soup with fried tofu was $6. But many New Yorkers willingly pay premium prices for quality Japanese food.
Presentation was certainly not the problem; nor was decor. So, I surmise that the location did Komegashi in. Just one block east, Park Avenue South teems with crowded restaurants; I couldn't even get a seat at Haru tonight. But there aren't many places to dine on Broadway in the lower 20s. Komegashi was the only restaurant on its block. Adding to this problem was the fact that Komegashi's building was landmarked, so there were heavy restrictions on signage. Many people walked by the door without even realizing that there was a restaurant inside. (Slightly south of Komegashi, the still-popular Craftbar features a prominent sign.)
I wish the new owners better luck, but I'll miss Komegashi. I may even stop by next week to enjoy my "regular" status for the last time.
So, you can imagine how disconcerted I was to learn that Komegashi will be no more after next week. The restaurant has been sold. Apparently, four out of five NYC restaurants close within five years. But I wonder, what is the reason for this particular failure? Were the guests expecting a more traditional Japanese cuisine? Were they put off by the beef jus/red wine/soy dipping sauce that was served with the skewered meats and fish, or did they not appreciate the sprinkling of sansho pepper atop the freshwater eel? It's true that the offerings were not inexpensive; a "foamed" miso soup with fried tofu was $6. But many New Yorkers willingly pay premium prices for quality Japanese food.
Presentation was certainly not the problem; nor was decor. So, I surmise that the location did Komegashi in. Just one block east, Park Avenue South teems with crowded restaurants; I couldn't even get a seat at Haru tonight. But there aren't many places to dine on Broadway in the lower 20s. Komegashi was the only restaurant on its block. Adding to this problem was the fact that Komegashi's building was landmarked, so there were heavy restrictions on signage. Many people walked by the door without even realizing that there was a restaurant inside. (Slightly south of Komegashi, the still-popular Craftbar features a prominent sign.)
I wish the new owners better luck, but I'll miss Komegashi. I may even stop by next week to enjoy my "regular" status for the last time.
Saturday, December 10, 2005
Heirloom (Closed as of 4/06)
Pure Food And Wine owner Matthew Kenney has added another establishment to his rapidly expanding vegetarian empire: Heirloom. Open just a week, Heirloom already seems to have its formula down pat. The servers are knowledgeable and friendly, the semicircle banquettes are comfy, and the food is artfully presented and sometimes startling in its creativity.
The restaurant is upscale, but it aims to comfort. Tonight, my companion and I were delighted to receive a complimentary basket of jalapeno hush puppies. Although I would have liked a bit more jalapeno, I did get the requisite kick from the accompanying spicy creme fraiche. (There was also a maple mustard butter.)
Although the portobello "foie gras" appetizer sounded appealing, I decided on the carrot soup. A spiral of creme fraiche, a hint of chive oil and a few chewy carrot dumplings had me tilting the bowl to collect the last few drops of soup. But I was especially enthralled with my companion's "tempura sushi." Gossamer slices of persimmon, artichoke and chayote were colorful stand-ins for sushi fish, and tempura haricot verts provided some crunch in the maki.
I enjoyed my entree, but my heart belonged to my companion's "seafood trio." This assortment of trumpet royale and bluefoot mushrooms was disguised as seared scallops, fried calamari and grilled fluke, which were served on a bed of garlicky sauteed spinach. The scallops in particular were eerily authentic. I ordered the moqueca, which is a Brazilian shrimp stew usually served with rice. Heirloom's veggie interpretation showcased delicious chunks of flash-fried housemade tofu, but excluded the rice; I missed it. (The accompanying banana pepper empanadas were a nice touch.)
My dessert was an impressive, cocoa-dusted tableau of chocolate-syrup-drenched black cocoa cake, espresso ice cream and crunchy roasted coffee bean bark. A layer of sweet chestnut spread inside the cake balanced the strong chocolate and coffee flavors. My companion ordered the raisin-studded, white-chocolate-iced spice cake. (I ate all of the caramelized walnuts on the side.) And in the interest of providing the most comprehensive review possible, I also tried the chocolate parfait, which was really a nut-sprinkled chocolate mousse atop some jelled grapes... I suppose I'm more accustomed to a cake foundation, but you'll never catch me complaining about chocolate.
Heirloom: 191 Orchard St., (212) 228-9888.
The restaurant is upscale, but it aims to comfort. Tonight, my companion and I were delighted to receive a complimentary basket of jalapeno hush puppies. Although I would have liked a bit more jalapeno, I did get the requisite kick from the accompanying spicy creme fraiche. (There was also a maple mustard butter.)
Although the portobello "foie gras" appetizer sounded appealing, I decided on the carrot soup. A spiral of creme fraiche, a hint of chive oil and a few chewy carrot dumplings had me tilting the bowl to collect the last few drops of soup. But I was especially enthralled with my companion's "tempura sushi." Gossamer slices of persimmon, artichoke and chayote were colorful stand-ins for sushi fish, and tempura haricot verts provided some crunch in the maki.
I enjoyed my entree, but my heart belonged to my companion's "seafood trio." This assortment of trumpet royale and bluefoot mushrooms was disguised as seared scallops, fried calamari and grilled fluke, which were served on a bed of garlicky sauteed spinach. The scallops in particular were eerily authentic. I ordered the moqueca, which is a Brazilian shrimp stew usually served with rice. Heirloom's veggie interpretation showcased delicious chunks of flash-fried housemade tofu, but excluded the rice; I missed it. (The accompanying banana pepper empanadas were a nice touch.)
My dessert was an impressive, cocoa-dusted tableau of chocolate-syrup-drenched black cocoa cake, espresso ice cream and crunchy roasted coffee bean bark. A layer of sweet chestnut spread inside the cake balanced the strong chocolate and coffee flavors. My companion ordered the raisin-studded, white-chocolate-iced spice cake. (I ate all of the caramelized walnuts on the side.) And in the interest of providing the most comprehensive review possible, I also tried the chocolate parfait, which was really a nut-sprinkled chocolate mousse atop some jelled grapes... I suppose I'm more accustomed to a cake foundation, but you'll never catch me complaining about chocolate.
Heirloom: 191 Orchard St., (212) 228-9888.
Wednesday, December 07, 2005
An Early Christmas Present
Yesterday threatened to elapse without one moment of deliciousness. But when I threw open the door, ready to collapse onto the couch, I noticed a mysterious package. That's funny, I thought; I hadn't ordered anything online in quite a while.
Upon closer inspection, the package appeared to be a gift, and indeed it was. A good friend (who is the proud keeper of a very enthusiastic dog) had sent me a box which contained the most amazing artisanal gingersnaps. Large chunks of sugarcoated candied ginger rendered these cookies absolutely irresistible. After downing one, I found myself reaching for another, even though they were huge. Then, I happily tumbled into bed and had sweet dreams.
Upon closer inspection, the package appeared to be a gift, and indeed it was. A good friend (who is the proud keeper of a very enthusiastic dog) had sent me a box which contained the most amazing artisanal gingersnaps. Large chunks of sugarcoated candied ginger rendered these cookies absolutely irresistible. After downing one, I found myself reaching for another, even though they were huge. Then, I happily tumbled into bed and had sweet dreams.
Saturday, December 03, 2005
Michel Cluizel Chocolat (THIS STORE CLOSED IN 2008)
Please pardon my recent lapse in posting; I've been busy consuming my own weight in chocolate. The opening of Michel Cluizel Chocolat is both a blessing and a curse, because my attempt to save room for dessert is now an attempt to save all room for dessert.
Ever since I first discovered the inconceivably chocolatey Grand Lait bar, I've been an unabashed devotee of Michel Cluizel chocolates. With a 45% cocoa content, this very special bar combines the deep complexity of dark chocolate with the richness of dairy. This is just one of the many treats at Cluizel's one-month-old cafe.
Michel Cluizel Chocolat is unapologetically adult-oriented. (Indeed, one of the guided chocolate tastings is marked "ADULTS ONLY.") There are several different "choctails" including a Chocolate Russian, and you can order assorted liqueurs in chocolate bonbon cups. This atmosphere, and the comfortable banquettes, create an aura of romance around the room. Today, one couple sitting next to me fed each other chocolate fondue. (My companion, regrettably, is on a diet.)
I didn't quite have the stamina for a 50-minute chocolate tasting, so I opted for one of the desserts. The menu included the afore-mentioned fondue accompanied by churros (perhaps taking a page from nearby Pipa's book), frozen white chocolate Chantilly, chocolate mousse, old-fashioned buttercream-frosted icebox cake, dark chocolate crullers, and chocolate-chestnut "decadent" framboise. I don't believe I've ever seen the word decadent used as a noun; I'll have to adopt this usage. Or, at the very least, I'd like to adopt the habit of eating this particular dessert on a daily basis. The tartness of the raspberry coulis was a perfect foil for a creamy dome of divinely rich chocolate-chestnut mousse. I also enjoyed a cup of Moka D'Oro coffee blended with Michel Cluizel hot chocolate mix.
Of course, I had to take a walk around the center display full of chocolate. I noticed that, like La Maison Du Chocolat, Michel Cluizel offers bouchees. These bonbons on steroids are offered in quite intriguing flavors; I chose the plum marmalade. I also bought some salted butter "Guerande" caramels and a 16-piece ballotin. I guess I just won't have room for dinner tonight!
Michel Cluizel Chocolat: 888 Broadway (inside ABC Carpet & Home), 646-602-3262.
Ever since I first discovered the inconceivably chocolatey Grand Lait bar, I've been an unabashed devotee of Michel Cluizel chocolates. With a 45% cocoa content, this very special bar combines the deep complexity of dark chocolate with the richness of dairy. This is just one of the many treats at Cluizel's one-month-old cafe.
Michel Cluizel Chocolat is unapologetically adult-oriented. (Indeed, one of the guided chocolate tastings is marked "ADULTS ONLY.") There are several different "choctails" including a Chocolate Russian, and you can order assorted liqueurs in chocolate bonbon cups. This atmosphere, and the comfortable banquettes, create an aura of romance around the room. Today, one couple sitting next to me fed each other chocolate fondue. (My companion, regrettably, is on a diet.)
I didn't quite have the stamina for a 50-minute chocolate tasting, so I opted for one of the desserts. The menu included the afore-mentioned fondue accompanied by churros (perhaps taking a page from nearby Pipa's book), frozen white chocolate Chantilly, chocolate mousse, old-fashioned buttercream-frosted icebox cake, dark chocolate crullers, and chocolate-chestnut "decadent" framboise. I don't believe I've ever seen the word decadent used as a noun; I'll have to adopt this usage. Or, at the very least, I'd like to adopt the habit of eating this particular dessert on a daily basis. The tartness of the raspberry coulis was a perfect foil for a creamy dome of divinely rich chocolate-chestnut mousse. I also enjoyed a cup of Moka D'Oro coffee blended with Michel Cluizel hot chocolate mix.
Of course, I had to take a walk around the center display full of chocolate. I noticed that, like La Maison Du Chocolat, Michel Cluizel offers bouchees. These bonbons on steroids are offered in quite intriguing flavors; I chose the plum marmalade. I also bought some salted butter "Guerande" caramels and a 16-piece ballotin. I guess I just won't have room for dinner tonight!
Michel Cluizel Chocolat: 888 Broadway (inside ABC Carpet & Home), 646-602-3262.
Saturday, November 19, 2005
A Mug Of Hot Tea
There's nothing more soothing to the winter-weary than a mug of tea. Today I ventured over to the new Roebling Tea Room in Williamsburg (143 Roebling, St., Brooklyn, 718-963-0760), where I found a very imaginative tea menu. Among the impressive variety of green, rooibos, white, black, herbal and mate teas were such intriguing blends as "green coconut cream" (coconut chips and green tea). I tried the cocoa nib black tea, and accompanied it with an excellent chocolate croissant. Roebling's "comestibles" menu is also appealing; there are pulled pork sandwiches, various salads, duck pate with cornichons, and baked brie. On the weekends there's a "tea brunch" with your choice of different items such as an egg and gruyere sandwich. For those of you who can't make up your mind between tea and coffee, there is the "Black Eye Chai" (chai and espresso). (Of course, this may defeat the relaxing purpose of tea.)
In Manhattan, a former antique shop now houses a Chinese tearoom: The Tea Gallery (131 Allen St., 212- 777-6148). Besides offering a high-quality selection of red, white, green and oolong teas, the Tea Gallery provides tastings and classes.
A recent (and exquisite) 8-course dinner at Ito-En's Kai (822 Madison, 212-988-7277) featured sencha and hojicha. (However, the portions were doll-sized, and I was so hungry afterwards that I was forced to order an additional dessert.) Craving the grassy sencha, I returned to the Ito En store to learn all kinds of valuable tidbits about the teamaking process. Apparently, the water must not be too hot, and should first be poured into teacups (or a special cooling cup) for cooling. The water and tea are then added to a kyusu, or teapot, which ideally should contain a porous surface to absorb the flavor of the tea. (Repeated use "seasons" the teapot.) I am now ready for some tea-making experiments of my own!
In Manhattan, a former antique shop now houses a Chinese tearoom: The Tea Gallery (131 Allen St., 212- 777-6148). Besides offering a high-quality selection of red, white, green and oolong teas, the Tea Gallery provides tastings and classes.
A recent (and exquisite) 8-course dinner at Ito-En's Kai (822 Madison, 212-988-7277) featured sencha and hojicha. (However, the portions were doll-sized, and I was so hungry afterwards that I was forced to order an additional dessert.) Craving the grassy sencha, I returned to the Ito En store to learn all kinds of valuable tidbits about the teamaking process. Apparently, the water must not be too hot, and should first be poured into teacups (or a special cooling cup) for cooling. The water and tea are then added to a kyusu, or teapot, which ideally should contain a porous surface to absorb the flavor of the tea. (Repeated use "seasons" the teapot.) I am now ready for some tea-making experiments of my own!
Friday, November 11, 2005
The Chocolate Show 2005
New Yorkers' passion for chocolate has apparently grown to such an extent that it can no longer be contained by just one building. The Chocolate Show 2005, traditionally held on the first floor of the Metropolitan Pavilion, has now swallowed up the adjacent Altman Building. So there's even more chocolate to explore!
Upon entering the show today, I was greeted by the Schokinag truck. Smiling women were serving both triple chocolate and mint cocoa. (Schokinag's Website is "drinkyourchocolate.com". Somehow I doubt that any parents have to admonish their children to do this.)
I'm always totally overwhelmed by the sheer expanse of chocolate in the large Metropolitan Pavilion, so I began my journey in the Altman Building. (I was still totally overwhelmed.) I admired the chocolate rendition of the Mona Lisa. Payard and J. Emanuel provided truffle samples nearby. The latter exhibitor, which featured Shiraz and Zinfandel truffles, was strategically placed next to the 21-and-over Chocolate Lounge. I walked over to one of my favorite chocolatiers, Michel Cluizel, and was delighted to learn that they're opening a new chocolate boutique today at ABC Carpet & Home! (Once I recover from this intense chocolate high, I will have to run over there.) I came away with a bag of 65% cacao Mangaro Noir and 50% Mangaro Lait squares.
Past the chocolate streetlight and "Broadway" sign was the Chocolat Weiss stand. Chocolat Weiss has existed since the early 1880s, but has developed an American presence in the last 4 years. They pride themselves on being the "authentic chocolate-maker of French gastronomy." (This sounded good to me, so I purchased a bag of their 85% cacao squares.) Then it was time for fudge brownie samples at San Francisco's Recchiuti.
Although the Altman basement was billed as housing a "chocolate spa," the spa was really just an aggregation of those ubiquitous $5 masseurs, albeit with the addition of an airborne chocolate aroma. I resolved to conquer the immense Metropolitan Building.
At the entrance were Gustaux from France and Belgian Belcolade, as well as another Schokinag location. I was immediately drawn to the Divalicious chocolate fountain, where I happily enjoyed milk-chocolate-dipped bananas. Divalicious will be opening a cafe in Nolita at the end of the month.
Moving along, I sampled the award-winning Maracaibo of Felchlin, the miraculous little chocolate-coated walnut brownies of Vere, and some Java milk from Chocolove (rather too sweet, I thought). I experienced chocolate in its deepest, richest form at the exhibit of Sweet Riot, a 6-week-old Chelsea store. (Sweet Riot offers pure cocoa nibs in different strengths. Whoa!)
I noticed two trends in chocolate this year: the altruistic and the crunchy. In the first category were New Tree, which sold "FORGIVENESS" bars (which is what I will later have to ask of my stomach), and the Chocolate Bar, which was attempting to save CBGB's.
Crunch seemed to be a factor in several chocolate items, from the chocolate-covered cornflakes at Knipschildt and Jacques Torres to the exquisite chocolate-coated feuilletine of Love In Disguise.
After snagging a Fairytale Brownie, a coupon from Peanut Butter & Co. and a green-tea truffle from Tokyo-based Mary's Chocolatier, I knew I had to stagger home. But on my way out, I couldn't resist passing by the hot cocoa stand again. A woman was asking what kind of cocoa was being served. Upon hearing that it was triple chocolate, she said, "Well, we have to get in as many antioxidants as we can." A worthy goal, I'm sure.
The Chocolate Show 2005: 125 West 18th St. Open through Sunday.
Upon entering the show today, I was greeted by the Schokinag truck. Smiling women were serving both triple chocolate and mint cocoa. (Schokinag's Website is "drinkyourchocolate.com". Somehow I doubt that any parents have to admonish their children to do this.)
I'm always totally overwhelmed by the sheer expanse of chocolate in the large Metropolitan Pavilion, so I began my journey in the Altman Building. (I was still totally overwhelmed.) I admired the chocolate rendition of the Mona Lisa. Payard and J. Emanuel provided truffle samples nearby. The latter exhibitor, which featured Shiraz and Zinfandel truffles, was strategically placed next to the 21-and-over Chocolate Lounge. I walked over to one of my favorite chocolatiers, Michel Cluizel, and was delighted to learn that they're opening a new chocolate boutique today at ABC Carpet & Home! (Once I recover from this intense chocolate high, I will have to run over there.) I came away with a bag of 65% cacao Mangaro Noir and 50% Mangaro Lait squares.
Past the chocolate streetlight and "Broadway" sign was the Chocolat Weiss stand. Chocolat Weiss has existed since the early 1880s, but has developed an American presence in the last 4 years. They pride themselves on being the "authentic chocolate-maker of French gastronomy." (This sounded good to me, so I purchased a bag of their 85% cacao squares.) Then it was time for fudge brownie samples at San Francisco's Recchiuti.
Although the Altman basement was billed as housing a "chocolate spa," the spa was really just an aggregation of those ubiquitous $5 masseurs, albeit with the addition of an airborne chocolate aroma. I resolved to conquer the immense Metropolitan Building.
At the entrance were Gustaux from France and Belgian Belcolade, as well as another Schokinag location. I was immediately drawn to the Divalicious chocolate fountain, where I happily enjoyed milk-chocolate-dipped bananas. Divalicious will be opening a cafe in Nolita at the end of the month.
Moving along, I sampled the award-winning Maracaibo of Felchlin, the miraculous little chocolate-coated walnut brownies of Vere, and some Java milk from Chocolove (rather too sweet, I thought). I experienced chocolate in its deepest, richest form at the exhibit of Sweet Riot, a 6-week-old Chelsea store. (Sweet Riot offers pure cocoa nibs in different strengths. Whoa!)
I noticed two trends in chocolate this year: the altruistic and the crunchy. In the first category were New Tree, which sold "FORGIVENESS" bars (which is what I will later have to ask of my stomach), and the Chocolate Bar, which was attempting to save CBGB's.
Crunch seemed to be a factor in several chocolate items, from the chocolate-covered cornflakes at Knipschildt and Jacques Torres to the exquisite chocolate-coated feuilletine of Love In Disguise.
After snagging a Fairytale Brownie, a coupon from Peanut Butter & Co. and a green-tea truffle from Tokyo-based Mary's Chocolatier, I knew I had to stagger home. But on my way out, I couldn't resist passing by the hot cocoa stand again. A woman was asking what kind of cocoa was being served. Upon hearing that it was triple chocolate, she said, "Well, we have to get in as many antioxidants as we can." A worthy goal, I'm sure.
The Chocolate Show 2005: 125 West 18th St. Open through Sunday.
Wednesday, November 09, 2005
A "European Chocolate Culinary Adventure"
Now I know how we're celebrating our anniversary...
According to Culinary Travel Adventures, the head chocolatier from Vosges is joining Silverseas Luxury Cruise for a special voyage from September 13-23, 2006. The chocolatey cruise will visit Stockholm, London, Denmark, the Netherlands, Poland, Germany and Norway. Chocolate-related excursions will abound! Onboard, there will be chocolate-making classes.
For more information, call Cindy at (847) 272-2894.
According to Culinary Travel Adventures, the head chocolatier from Vosges is joining Silverseas Luxury Cruise for a special voyage from September 13-23, 2006. The chocolatey cruise will visit Stockholm, London, Denmark, the Netherlands, Poland, Germany and Norway. Chocolate-related excursions will abound! Onboard, there will be chocolate-making classes.
For more information, call Cindy at (847) 272-2894.
Tuesday, November 01, 2005
Long Island City - A Cafe Crawl
If you take the 7 train just one stop into Queens, you'll be transported into Long Island City's budding shopping district. This area resembles a quaint old village that was inexplicably planted right next to a bustling metropolis. At night, its narrow streets and diminutive brick buildings are eerily illuminated by the skyscrapers of Manhattan. The Chrysler Building looks close enough to touch.
L.I.C., which is emerging from its industrial roots, has recently become home to a confluence of cafes. Each has a quite distinct character. (Starbucksification has not yet arrived in this neighborhood.)
Right across from the Vernon-Jackson subway station is TEN63 (1063 Jackson Ave., 718-482-7679). Unfortunately, I've been told that this spacious cafe will soon be demolished to make way for the construction of a luxury condo. I'm sure the locals will miss the excellent homemade hot chocolate and egg sandwiches. I ordered the avocado/cotija cheese/black bean sandwich, and although I must opine that unpureed beans don't belong in a sandwich, the bread was terrific.
I took a right on 50th Avenue and walked past Cafe Henri (1010 50th Ave., 718-383-9315). The menu was an appetizing list of crepes and croques monsieurs. (Cafe Henri is related to the popular bistro Le Gamin.) Live jazz is featured on Thursdays and Saturdays from 8-11 p.m.
I then settled in at Brasil Coffee House. The owners of this cafe are so obsessed with coffee production that they've filled the tables with coffee beans and painted an agricultural mural on the wall. (They are also ardent advocates of coffee's supposed health benefits.) I had no idea what I was ordering when I asked for the "BCM Media," but apparently it was one of the strongest drinks on the menu. It must have stimulated my appetite, because I also consumed a hot coconut muffin and a chewy Brazilian cheese bread (pao de queijo).
After this caffeinated experience, I needed to decompress at Communitea (47-02 Vernon Blvd., 718-729-7708). At this comfy tea shop, the menu is scrawled on the back wall, and the chairs look like they were lifted from the local schoolhouse. Communitea truly has something for everyone; both beef and tofu hot dogs are available in organic white or whole wheat buns. I enjoyed a cup of freshly brewed sencha. All categories of tea are offered: black, green, oolong, white, flavored and herbal. The service is friendly and warm.
(On my way back to the subway, I caught sight of a sign that said "Cafe." Apparently this was the now-closed, much-missed L.I.C. Cafe. Fortunately for food-lovers, the owner is now operating a catering shop in the space, and he'll soon open a cooking school called Peter's Pans. 5-48 49th Ave., 718-752-0282.)
L.I.C., which is emerging from its industrial roots, has recently become home to a confluence of cafes. Each has a quite distinct character. (Starbucksification has not yet arrived in this neighborhood.)
Right across from the Vernon-Jackson subway station is TEN63 (1063 Jackson Ave., 718-482-7679). Unfortunately, I've been told that this spacious cafe will soon be demolished to make way for the construction of a luxury condo. I'm sure the locals will miss the excellent homemade hot chocolate and egg sandwiches. I ordered the avocado/cotija cheese/black bean sandwich, and although I must opine that unpureed beans don't belong in a sandwich, the bread was terrific.
I took a right on 50th Avenue and walked past Cafe Henri (1010 50th Ave., 718-383-9315). The menu was an appetizing list of crepes and croques monsieurs. (Cafe Henri is related to the popular bistro Le Gamin.) Live jazz is featured on Thursdays and Saturdays from 8-11 p.m.
I then settled in at Brasil Coffee House. The owners of this cafe are so obsessed with coffee production that they've filled the tables with coffee beans and painted an agricultural mural on the wall. (They are also ardent advocates of coffee's supposed health benefits.) I had no idea what I was ordering when I asked for the "BCM Media," but apparently it was one of the strongest drinks on the menu. It must have stimulated my appetite, because I also consumed a hot coconut muffin and a chewy Brazilian cheese bread (pao de queijo).
After this caffeinated experience, I needed to decompress at Communitea (47-02 Vernon Blvd., 718-729-7708). At this comfy tea shop, the menu is scrawled on the back wall, and the chairs look like they were lifted from the local schoolhouse. Communitea truly has something for everyone; both beef and tofu hot dogs are available in organic white or whole wheat buns. I enjoyed a cup of freshly brewed sencha. All categories of tea are offered: black, green, oolong, white, flavored and herbal. The service is friendly and warm.
(On my way back to the subway, I caught sight of a sign that said "Cafe." Apparently this was the now-closed, much-missed L.I.C. Cafe. Fortunately for food-lovers, the owner is now operating a catering shop in the space, and he'll soon open a cooking school called Peter's Pans. 5-48 49th Ave., 718-752-0282.)
Monday, October 31, 2005
Cube 63 (Brooklyn)
Are you one of those people who, after ordering the sushi combination, invariably sighs, "Where's the good stuff?" You are always bemoaning the lack of eel and the scarcity of yellowtail. Here's a solution for you: the Cube 63 special. At just $20, it contains only salmon, yellowtail, eel and tuna. So you won't have to order the more expensive a la carte, but neither will you have to pick through the egg and the dreaded crab stick! (I actually quite like the egg, myself.)
It seems that every day a Manhattan restaurant opens a new location in trendy Brooklyn. Cube 63 happens to be the third restaurant that I've experienced in Brooklyn before Manhattan (the other two are Blue Ribbon Sushi and Brooklyn Fish Camp). I'm so glad I did. The complimentary spicy tuna amuse-bouche won me over before I'd even ordered. (How often do you go to a sushi bar and receive 4 free pieces of sushi?)
My friend began with the vegetable gyoza. I thought they needed some ginger or white pepper, but I enjoyed my "Puerto Rico" maki (what on earth is this, you ask?): lobster salad and tempura eel in thinly sliced cucumber cups. For the more authentically-inclined, Cube 63 does have a sizable nigirizushi menu which includes delights like Spanish mackerel and sea eel.
Upon receiving her a la carte selection, my friend exclaimed, "Such tender fish!" And indeed it was, slippery and silky on the tongue. I was originally going to order the omakase, but my Puerto Rico roll had somewhat filled me up and I went with the Cube 63 special. (I'm one of those who greatly appreciates the presence of eel!) There were eight pieces of sushi and a delicious spicy tuna roll with a sweet miso coulis.
I really don't know why we ordered dessert after this, because I was about to burst, and my friend doesn't have much of a sweet tooth. But we did order some green-tea ice cream, both plain and in a chewy mochi preparation.
On a side note, I am always amazed by the constant transformation of Cobble Hill, and to a lesser extent, Park Slope. I'm starting to lose count of how many restaurants have opened on Smith Street since I moved out of the borough!
Cube 63 Brooklyn: 234 Court St., (718) 243-2208.
It seems that every day a Manhattan restaurant opens a new location in trendy Brooklyn. Cube 63 happens to be the third restaurant that I've experienced in Brooklyn before Manhattan (the other two are Blue Ribbon Sushi and Brooklyn Fish Camp). I'm so glad I did. The complimentary spicy tuna amuse-bouche won me over before I'd even ordered. (How often do you go to a sushi bar and receive 4 free pieces of sushi?)
My friend began with the vegetable gyoza. I thought they needed some ginger or white pepper, but I enjoyed my "Puerto Rico" maki (what on earth is this, you ask?): lobster salad and tempura eel in thinly sliced cucumber cups. For the more authentically-inclined, Cube 63 does have a sizable nigirizushi menu which includes delights like Spanish mackerel and sea eel.
Upon receiving her a la carte selection, my friend exclaimed, "Such tender fish!" And indeed it was, slippery and silky on the tongue. I was originally going to order the omakase, but my Puerto Rico roll had somewhat filled me up and I went with the Cube 63 special. (I'm one of those who greatly appreciates the presence of eel!) There were eight pieces of sushi and a delicious spicy tuna roll with a sweet miso coulis.
I really don't know why we ordered dessert after this, because I was about to burst, and my friend doesn't have much of a sweet tooth. But we did order some green-tea ice cream, both plain and in a chewy mochi preparation.
On a side note, I am always amazed by the constant transformation of Cobble Hill, and to a lesser extent, Park Slope. I'm starting to lose count of how many restaurants have opened on Smith Street since I moved out of the borough!
Cube 63 Brooklyn: 234 Court St., (718) 243-2208.
Saturday, October 29, 2005
A Fall Afternoon In Cold Spring
The quaint town of Cold Spring is awash in freshly baked goods! Although NYC is home to several superlative bakeries, there's something about the backdrop of bright autumn leaves that lends extra flavor to a hot muffin. (That't not to say that I don't enjoy my fougasse in the concrete jungle, of course.)
Cold Spring, which boasts a spectacular view of the Hudson River, is just an hour and 15 minutes from the city. The train from Grand Central will deposit you right into the thick of things, and you may want to start your tour with a trip to Provincial Home (80 Main St., 845-265-5360). The European ceramics store offers a wide variety of jams which you'll want to spread on all the baked goods you're soon to enjoy. Sweet jams include red papaya grapefruit and savories include roasted red pepper.
Next, walk over to The Foundry Cafe (55 Main St., 845-265-4504). There, you'll find a changing assortment of cheesecakes (rated "orgasmic" by Hudson Valley Magazine), crumbles (today, it was apple peach blueberry cranberry), muffins and pies. Brownies come both with walnuts and without. (The Foundry is also wonderful in the omelette department... have one with ham and Swiss or pesto and tomato.) Sugar-dusted multi-grain pancakes are served on Saturdays and Sundays only.
The apple cake at the Pig Hill Inn (73 Main St., 845-265-9347) is for guests only, but you might consider lodging there just to be able to feast on it! The Pig Hill Inn is renowned for its excellent breakfast.
Walking further down Main Street, you will notice fresh cheesecakes and pecan pies at the Cold Spring Cafe (129 Main St., 845-265-9471). But wait, there's more! If you take a right on Chestnut Street, you'll soon find a beloved shrine for baked goods aficionados: The Main Course. This small catering company bakes raspberry muffins, biscotti, almond pound cake, chocolate-chip cookies and much more! (I also could not resist their caramelized butternut squash and spinach-watercress vichysoisse.) Pick up one of their excellent packaged salads for the trip home; you might especially enjoy the grilled chicken Caesar or the mesclun with Montrachet.
Since the weather was warm until recently, the leaves in Cold Spring are only changing just now. So there's still time to enjoy the beautiful fall colors!
Cold Spring, which boasts a spectacular view of the Hudson River, is just an hour and 15 minutes from the city. The train from Grand Central will deposit you right into the thick of things, and you may want to start your tour with a trip to Provincial Home (80 Main St., 845-265-5360). The European ceramics store offers a wide variety of jams which you'll want to spread on all the baked goods you're soon to enjoy. Sweet jams include red papaya grapefruit and savories include roasted red pepper.
Next, walk over to The Foundry Cafe (55 Main St., 845-265-4504). There, you'll find a changing assortment of cheesecakes (rated "orgasmic" by Hudson Valley Magazine), crumbles (today, it was apple peach blueberry cranberry), muffins and pies. Brownies come both with walnuts and without. (The Foundry is also wonderful in the omelette department... have one with ham and Swiss or pesto and tomato.) Sugar-dusted multi-grain pancakes are served on Saturdays and Sundays only.
The apple cake at the Pig Hill Inn (73 Main St., 845-265-9347) is for guests only, but you might consider lodging there just to be able to feast on it! The Pig Hill Inn is renowned for its excellent breakfast.
Walking further down Main Street, you will notice fresh cheesecakes and pecan pies at the Cold Spring Cafe (129 Main St., 845-265-9471). But wait, there's more! If you take a right on Chestnut Street, you'll soon find a beloved shrine for baked goods aficionados: The Main Course. This small catering company bakes raspberry muffins, biscotti, almond pound cake, chocolate-chip cookies and much more! (I also could not resist their caramelized butternut squash and spinach-watercress vichysoisse.) Pick up one of their excellent packaged salads for the trip home; you might especially enjoy the grilled chicken Caesar or the mesclun with Montrachet.
Since the weather was warm until recently, the leaves in Cold Spring are only changing just now. So there's still time to enjoy the beautiful fall colors!
Sunday, October 23, 2005
Breakfast Envy at Thomas Beisl
Have you ever coveted your neighbor's plate? This morning at Thomas Beisl, I looked longingly at my friend's breakfast. Ironically, I had suggested that she order that particular selection: the brioche French toast. Three-inch-thick slices of eggy brioche were snowed under with confectioners sugar, thickly spread with homemade apricot jam and festooned with caramelized bananas. The whole glorious mess was accompanied by real maple syrup and creme fraiche.
(My friend didn't care much for the creme fraiche, but as she gleefully poured on the syrup, she regaled me with stories from her New England childhood. Apparently she used to tap maple trees and enjoy wintertime "maple snow." Her mother would heat up the maple syrup and pour it over a handful of freshly fallen backyard snow.)
I had ordered the intriguing-sounding souffled pancakes with fruit compote and raisins. But although I enjoyed the stewed plums in the compote, the pancakes were more like pieces of heavy fried dough with none of the airiness of a souffled preparation. Fortunately, my friend was generous with her French toast, and I believe I will order it the next time we meet for brunch. (I later consoled myself with a fresh-out-the-oven wild blueberry muffin at Blue Sky Bakery.)
Thomas Beisl: 25 Lafayette Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 222-5800.
(My friend didn't care much for the creme fraiche, but as she gleefully poured on the syrup, she regaled me with stories from her New England childhood. Apparently she used to tap maple trees and enjoy wintertime "maple snow." Her mother would heat up the maple syrup and pour it over a handful of freshly fallen backyard snow.)
I had ordered the intriguing-sounding souffled pancakes with fruit compote and raisins. But although I enjoyed the stewed plums in the compote, the pancakes were more like pieces of heavy fried dough with none of the airiness of a souffled preparation. Fortunately, my friend was generous with her French toast, and I believe I will order it the next time we meet for brunch. (I later consoled myself with a fresh-out-the-oven wild blueberry muffin at Blue Sky Bakery.)
Thomas Beisl: 25 Lafayette Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 222-5800.
Tuesday, October 11, 2005
The Heavenly Japanese Sweet Potato
The Japanese sweet potato, which is harvested in fall, always fills me with indescribable delight. Sweeter than the American version, it has red skin and delicious yellow flesh. When I was in Tokyo, I used to gorge on cubes of fresh sweet potato fudge, but I also like the potato as it was prepared this evening at Soba Ya: steamed and sliced thickly, sprinkled with crunchy black sesame seeds and drizzled with sugar syrup. Yum!
Soba-Ya: 229 East 9th St., (212) 533-6966.
Soba-Ya: 229 East 9th St., (212) 533-6966.
Thursday, October 06, 2005
Sweets News
Despite the tropical weather, cool temperatures are fast approaching. In fact, I believe that this weekend will bring our first taste of fall. That's why I was excited to learn that The Chocolate Room is once again offering its beloved bittersweet hot chocolate. I look forward to some cozy (and chocolatey) autumn afternoons!
But if the prospect of a mug of hot chocolate isn't enough incentive for you to visit this Park Slope cafe, chew on this: Fritz Knipchildt himself will be teaching a truffle-making class on Monday, October 17th from 7-8:30 p.m.! Call (718) 783-2900 for more information.
But if the prospect of a mug of hot chocolate isn't enough incentive for you to visit this Park Slope cafe, chew on this: Fritz Knipchildt himself will be teaching a truffle-making class on Monday, October 17th from 7-8:30 p.m.! Call (718) 783-2900 for more information.
Wednesday, October 05, 2005
718 Restaurant
Although those hip "718" logo T-shirts refer to the borough of Brooklyn, I'd be happy to wear one as an advertisement for this French bistro in Astoria. Yesterday, my companion and I trekked over there for a delicious lunch.
I hope we don't begin make a habit of this, but we ordered the same entree: the "lovely" tuna sandwich (lovely, indeed!). The sandwiches consisted of seared medium-rare tuna steaks, which were outwardly crisp and inwardly pink, and paper-thin mango slices on lightly toasted rolls. (There was none of the advertised avocado, but the spicy mayonnaise added enough oomph to preclude its necessity.) Our inner children were delighted by the large cones of well-salted, impeccably-fried potatoes, and we sneaked in a bit of virtue by munching on the mesclun salad.
My companion and I are beginning to realize that Forest Hills has been a culinary disappointment, aside from Nick's Pizza, Cheese of the World, and Thai Pot. Therefore, we may decide to move in the direction of 718!
718: 35-01 Ditmars Blvd., Astoria, (718) 204-5553.
I hope we don't begin make a habit of this, but we ordered the same entree: the "lovely" tuna sandwich (lovely, indeed!). The sandwiches consisted of seared medium-rare tuna steaks, which were outwardly crisp and inwardly pink, and paper-thin mango slices on lightly toasted rolls. (There was none of the advertised avocado, but the spicy mayonnaise added enough oomph to preclude its necessity.) Our inner children were delighted by the large cones of well-salted, impeccably-fried potatoes, and we sneaked in a bit of virtue by munching on the mesclun salad.
My companion and I are beginning to realize that Forest Hills has been a culinary disappointment, aside from Nick's Pizza, Cheese of the World, and Thai Pot. Therefore, we may decide to move in the direction of 718!
718: 35-01 Ditmars Blvd., Astoria, (718) 204-5553.
Monday, September 26, 2005
Lunch At Komegashi (Closed after 2005)
Did you know about the lunch special at Komegashi? For $13.50, you get a cup of miso soup sweet with daikon radish, a refreshing mesclun salad, a maki of the day (today, yellowtail scallion) and three skewers of the grilled meat or fish of your choice. Komegashi, a Japanese fusion spot known for its inventive dishes (steak frites maki, anyone?) really shines in the grill department. My salmon, yellowtail and yellowfin tuna were tasty and tender, and the accompanying olive-anchovy tapenade was addictive. (Other available skewers include ribeye, duck, and asparagus.)
Komegashi: 928 Broadway, (212) 475-3000.
Komegashi: 928 Broadway, (212) 475-3000.
Sunday, September 25, 2005
Osteria Del Sole (Closed as of March 2008)
The name of this osteria refers to the sunny regions of Italy which inform the cuisine featured here, but it could just as well describe the warm and friendly service. The host and waitstaff were so pleasant last night that my friend and I were happy to wait for over a half-hour in the bustling space. We sat down a little after 10:30 p.m.
Luca, our Florentine waiter, endured our sad attempts at communicating in Italian, and soon brought out rosemary flatbreads with a spicy tomato emulsion, an appetizer of three dollops of buffalo mozzarella interspersed with ripe red and yellow tomatoes and marinated peppers, and a grilled portobello mushroom "tower" in tomato sauce. We were already quite satisfied without having yet eaten the main meal.
Then a bowl of breadcrumb-topped spaghettini arrived, with saltiness provided by the dried mullet roe - arugula and tomatoes provided a vegetal touch. A fusilli tossed with black olives and capers arrived with several giant heads-on shrimp (only $13.95). By this time it was almost midnight and I decided to forgo dessert, but my friend happily devoured a frozen peach stuffed with creamy peach sorbet.
We said goodbye to charming Luca and it was time to compete for a cab.
Osteria del Sole: 267 West 4th St., (212) 620-6840.
Luca, our Florentine waiter, endured our sad attempts at communicating in Italian, and soon brought out rosemary flatbreads with a spicy tomato emulsion, an appetizer of three dollops of buffalo mozzarella interspersed with ripe red and yellow tomatoes and marinated peppers, and a grilled portobello mushroom "tower" in tomato sauce. We were already quite satisfied without having yet eaten the main meal.
Then a bowl of breadcrumb-topped spaghettini arrived, with saltiness provided by the dried mullet roe - arugula and tomatoes provided a vegetal touch. A fusilli tossed with black olives and capers arrived with several giant heads-on shrimp (only $13.95). By this time it was almost midnight and I decided to forgo dessert, but my friend happily devoured a frozen peach stuffed with creamy peach sorbet.
We said goodbye to charming Luca and it was time to compete for a cab.
Osteria del Sole: 267 West 4th St., (212) 620-6840.
Tuesday, September 20, 2005
Salli Vates Gets Married
My companion and I decided that we would like to share a lifetime of delicious meals. It was only fitting that we start our new lives together with some of the tastiest food imaginable. If any of you are planning a wedding, I cannot recommend Standing Room Only Caterers highly enough; our guests were oohing and aahing all the way from the pre-ceremony orange iced tea to the final course.
I must also let you know that it was no easy feat rescuing the top layer of Sarabeth's yellow genoise chocolate-espresso-marmalade truffle-filled wedding cake. And I hope we still have a few of the Vosges cherry kirsch and macadamia nut-coconut chocolate truffle favors.
You might ask, how did I know when to get married? I think it was when I could predict with accuracy which foods would mysteriously disappear from my refrigerator when my companion was visiting.
--------------
The Menu
Orange Iced Tea
Mango Mojitos
Summer Vegetables
Tuna Tartare with Wasabi Aioli on a Grilled Tortilla Triangle
Breast of Duck with Candied Kumquats on a Sweet Potato Gaufrite
Aged Ricotta Bruschetta
Cashew-Encrusted Chicken with Citrus Marmalade
Honey and Cilantro Cured Salmon on a Tiny Corn Pancake with Mango and Papaya Salsa
“Scrambled” Eggs topped with Shaved Truffles in a Phyllo Cup
Tiny Buckwheat Blini with Crème Fraiche and Caviar
Hoisin Beef Skewers with Hoisin Ginger Dipping Sauce
Assorted Nigiri-Zushi
Steamed Edamame with Rock Salt
Warm Paper-thin Crepe with Chicken, Hoisin Sauce, Homemade Plum Sauce, Shredded Napa Cabbage and Toasted Sesame Seed
Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche with Avocado and Diced Tomato in a Lime Vinaigrette
Wild Mushroom and Butternut Squash Empanadas
Crab Cakes With a Warm Cilantro Vinaigrette
Fresh Figs with Honey Herbed Chevre in a Balsamic Reduction
Crispy Baby Artichokes
Mixed Green Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette and Spring Rolls
Tenderloin of Beef with Potato Napoleon, Sauteed Spinach in Garlic and Olive Oil
Sauce of Oven Roasted Red and Yellow Tomatoes in a Red Wine Reduction
Pan Sauteed Sea Bass with Roasted Corn, Zucchini, Diced Tomatoes, Chanterelles, White Beans on a bed of Basmati Rice, Seasoned Haricots Verts
Tiny Sorbet in the shape of fruits and berries
Wedding Cake sprinkled with Powdered Sugar or Cocoa, Drizzled with Raspberry Puree
Linzer Heart Cookies
Iced Cappuccino with Rock Candy Swizzle Sticks
Chocolate Fountain with Large Driscoll Strawberries, Pretzels, Marshmallows, Biscotti, and Dried Fruit
I must also let you know that it was no easy feat rescuing the top layer of Sarabeth's yellow genoise chocolate-espresso-marmalade truffle-filled wedding cake. And I hope we still have a few of the Vosges cherry kirsch and macadamia nut-coconut chocolate truffle favors.
You might ask, how did I know when to get married? I think it was when I could predict with accuracy which foods would mysteriously disappear from my refrigerator when my companion was visiting.
--------------
The Menu
Orange Iced Tea
Mango Mojitos
Summer Vegetables
Tuna Tartare with Wasabi Aioli on a Grilled Tortilla Triangle
Breast of Duck with Candied Kumquats on a Sweet Potato Gaufrite
Aged Ricotta Bruschetta
Cashew-Encrusted Chicken with Citrus Marmalade
Honey and Cilantro Cured Salmon on a Tiny Corn Pancake with Mango and Papaya Salsa
“Scrambled” Eggs topped with Shaved Truffles in a Phyllo Cup
Tiny Buckwheat Blini with Crème Fraiche and Caviar
Hoisin Beef Skewers with Hoisin Ginger Dipping Sauce
Assorted Nigiri-Zushi
Steamed Edamame with Rock Salt
Warm Paper-thin Crepe with Chicken, Hoisin Sauce, Homemade Plum Sauce, Shredded Napa Cabbage and Toasted Sesame Seed
Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche with Avocado and Diced Tomato in a Lime Vinaigrette
Wild Mushroom and Butternut Squash Empanadas
Crab Cakes With a Warm Cilantro Vinaigrette
Fresh Figs with Honey Herbed Chevre in a Balsamic Reduction
Crispy Baby Artichokes
Mixed Green Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette and Spring Rolls
Tenderloin of Beef with Potato Napoleon, Sauteed Spinach in Garlic and Olive Oil
Sauce of Oven Roasted Red and Yellow Tomatoes in a Red Wine Reduction
Pan Sauteed Sea Bass with Roasted Corn, Zucchini, Diced Tomatoes, Chanterelles, White Beans on a bed of Basmati Rice, Seasoned Haricots Verts
Tiny Sorbet in the shape of fruits and berries
Wedding Cake sprinkled with Powdered Sugar or Cocoa, Drizzled with Raspberry Puree
Linzer Heart Cookies
Iced Cappuccino with Rock Candy Swizzle Sticks
Chocolate Fountain with Large Driscoll Strawberries, Pretzels, Marshmallows, Biscotti, and Dried Fruit
Friday, September 16, 2005
Sweets News
Choux Factory, the Upper East Side creampuff mecca, will be testing out a new flavor from September 19-October 2. Go and show your support for caramel creampuffs!
Choux Factory: 1685 First Ave., (212) 289-2023.
Choux Factory: 1685 First Ave., (212) 289-2023.
Saturday, September 10, 2005
Mushroom Mania at SOS Chefs
I mistakenly assumed that SOS Chefs was just another imported condiment store. Little did I know that I was soon to discover the shop's true raison d'etre! On a recent visit, while I was admiring the olive oil, one of the owners invited me into the sacred back room. "Here, you can come back and look," she said in the hushed tones one would use when peeking in on a sleeping infant.
She opened the heavy door, we entered a chilled little cave, and my jaw dropped in amazement. There before me was the most abundant profusion of every kind of wild mushroom I could imagine. Red lobster mushrooms, purplish bluefoots, morels, nameko, chanterelles... I don't think I've ever witnessed such a passion for mushrooms!
And now that the season of ripe peaches is giving way to the one of root vegetables, it's time to peruse some new recipes and buy a truckload of wild autumn mushrooms.
SOS Chefs of New York: 104 Avenue B, (212) 505-5813.
She opened the heavy door, we entered a chilled little cave, and my jaw dropped in amazement. There before me was the most abundant profusion of every kind of wild mushroom I could imagine. Red lobster mushrooms, purplish bluefoots, morels, nameko, chanterelles... I don't think I've ever witnessed such a passion for mushrooms!
And now that the season of ripe peaches is giving way to the one of root vegetables, it's time to peruse some new recipes and buy a truckload of wild autumn mushrooms.
SOS Chefs of New York: 104 Avenue B, (212) 505-5813.
Tuesday, September 06, 2005
Valrhona Chocolate Pudding
When I was a child, my mother constantly shooed me away from the brownie batter. She tried to placate me by letting me lick the bowl after she'd poured out the chocolatey mixture, but I was always left vaguely unsatisfied. Today, I bought a container of Valrhona chocolate pudding at Grand Central Market's Dishes At Home. My first spoonful instantly filled me with nostalgia, for the rich, creamy pudding tasted exactly like that brownie batter I'd always craved. And now I can indulge to my heart's content!
Dishes At Home: Grand Central Station, (212) 370-5511.
Dishes At Home: Grand Central Station, (212) 370-5511.
Wednesday, August 31, 2005
Thursday, August 25, 2005
Ushi-what? Ushiwakamaru!
The name of this basement sushi bar refers to a famous samurai, but the only knives wielded here are those of the expert sushi chefs.
Although Ushiwakamaru shares the casual atmosphere of other Houston Street restaurants, its sushi, and its prices, are serious. My sushi special was $34.50, and the chef's choice was $70 and up. And it seems that although both soup and salad were once served with an entrée, one must now choose between them. Fortunately, the food is of very high quality, and the sushi chefs are happy to speak about it. Last night, I overheard one of them educating a customer about the different grades of toro.
I began the meal with a bowl of scalliony miso soup and the chawan mushi (steamed egg custard) appetizer. The latter hid all kinds of tasty treasures (shrimp, whitefish and gingko nuts).
Soon afterwards, I was served a tray of seven perfect pieces of sushi (shrimp, snapper, two kinds of yellowtail and tuna, and clam). Although I enjoyed every bite, I wondered, was that all? I was relieved when the waitress carried another tray to my table. On this second tray were three pieces of tuna-scallion maki, creamy, nutty uni (perhaps the highlight of the evening), mirin-sweetened salmon roe, eel, and sweet egg cake stamped with Ushiwakamaru's logo.
The dessert menu included mochi, grapefruit jelly, ice cream and sweet bean soup; I abstained. (However, I later found myself buying a bag of chocolate-chip cookies at Whole Foods.)
Ushiwakamaru: 136 West Houston St., (212) 228-4181.
Although Ushiwakamaru shares the casual atmosphere of other Houston Street restaurants, its sushi, and its prices, are serious. My sushi special was $34.50, and the chef's choice was $70 and up. And it seems that although both soup and salad were once served with an entrée, one must now choose between them. Fortunately, the food is of very high quality, and the sushi chefs are happy to speak about it. Last night, I overheard one of them educating a customer about the different grades of toro.
I began the meal with a bowl of scalliony miso soup and the chawan mushi (steamed egg custard) appetizer. The latter hid all kinds of tasty treasures (shrimp, whitefish and gingko nuts).
Soon afterwards, I was served a tray of seven perfect pieces of sushi (shrimp, snapper, two kinds of yellowtail and tuna, and clam). Although I enjoyed every bite, I wondered, was that all? I was relieved when the waitress carried another tray to my table. On this second tray were three pieces of tuna-scallion maki, creamy, nutty uni (perhaps the highlight of the evening), mirin-sweetened salmon roe, eel, and sweet egg cake stamped with Ushiwakamaru's logo.
The dessert menu included mochi, grapefruit jelly, ice cream and sweet bean soup; I abstained. (However, I later found myself buying a bag of chocolate-chip cookies at Whole Foods.)
Ushiwakamaru: 136 West Houston St., (212) 228-4181.
Wednesday, August 24, 2005
Wednesday, August 17, 2005
Soba Koh
The simple act of walking down a different street can expose one to an exciting food adventure. Last night, I intended to pick up a snack at Caracas Arepa Bar. But as I walked up 2nd Avenue, I thought to myself, why not turn right on East 5th Street instead of East 6th? Soon, I was learning about the great culinary reputation of Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost island, and about ingredients like myoga, a kind of wild ginger which grows in in Japanese country backyards. Soba Koh was the setting for this enjoyable lesson, and Miho, a charming waitress, was my guide to the menu.
The Hakodate-born chef of Soba Koh, formerly of Takahachi Restaurant, is now pleasing our palates with slightly chewy, hand-cut, speckled buckwheat soba noodles. Soba is delicious both hot and cold, but there is nothing more refreshing than swirling a pile of cold noodles in a bracing soy-wasabi sauce.
The menu at Soba Koh features many ways to enjoy hot or cold soba: with yam and quail egg, duck and eggplant, or soft-shell crab, or in a daily special (last night, it was sea eel tempura soba).
There's also a mouthwatering selection of appetizers, including many permutations of buckwheat... sobagome, agesoba, and agedashi sobayaki (fried soba gnocchi stuffed with chicken). I opted instead for the homemade organic tofu, which was topped with a blanket of intensely green basil sauce and the aforementioned myoga. The spicy topping was a perfect foil for the cool, mild cubes of tofu.
Then, I feasted on the soba special, which consisted of two large strips of battered sweet eel, a shishito pepper, a large plate of noodles, soy-ginger sauce, scallions and wasabi. As I slurped up the last tasty noodle, Miho brought by a bowl of soba-yu (broth) to combine with the remaining sauce.
Any reasonable person would have considered this the end of their meal, but I had to go one step further and order the highly recommended black sesame pudding. Although its dark-grey color was initially alarming, the rich flavor (somewhere between coffee and almond) immediately drew me in.
I'm already thinking about going back...
Soba Koh: 309 East 5th St., (212) 254-2244.
The Hakodate-born chef of Soba Koh, formerly of Takahachi Restaurant, is now pleasing our palates with slightly chewy, hand-cut, speckled buckwheat soba noodles. Soba is delicious both hot and cold, but there is nothing more refreshing than swirling a pile of cold noodles in a bracing soy-wasabi sauce.
The menu at Soba Koh features many ways to enjoy hot or cold soba: with yam and quail egg, duck and eggplant, or soft-shell crab, or in a daily special (last night, it was sea eel tempura soba).
There's also a mouthwatering selection of appetizers, including many permutations of buckwheat... sobagome, agesoba, and agedashi sobayaki (fried soba gnocchi stuffed with chicken). I opted instead for the homemade organic tofu, which was topped with a blanket of intensely green basil sauce and the aforementioned myoga. The spicy topping was a perfect foil for the cool, mild cubes of tofu.
Then, I feasted on the soba special, which consisted of two large strips of battered sweet eel, a shishito pepper, a large plate of noodles, soy-ginger sauce, scallions and wasabi. As I slurped up the last tasty noodle, Miho brought by a bowl of soba-yu (broth) to combine with the remaining sauce.
Any reasonable person would have considered this the end of their meal, but I had to go one step further and order the highly recommended black sesame pudding. Although its dark-grey color was initially alarming, the rich flavor (somewhere between coffee and almond) immediately drew me in.
I'm already thinking about going back...
Soba Koh: 309 East 5th St., (212) 254-2244.
Tuesday, August 16, 2005
A Craving For Crayfish
I never realized that crayfish were so popular in NYC until this year. A couple months ago, I saw the critters awaiting their Szechuan fate in the open kitchen of Momofuku Noodle Bar (163 First Ave). Then I became aware of the various crayfish preparations (etouffee, in pasta, or on cheese toast) at Mara's Homemade. And just now, I was told that it's Crayfish Week at Aquavit. Until August 21, this venerable Swedish restaurant is offering 4-course dinners and all-you-can-peel-and-eat lunches!
Aquavit: 65 East 55th St., (212) 307-7311.
Aquavit: 65 East 55th St., (212) 307-7311.
Monday, August 15, 2005
Sake Bar Satsko
If you'd like to develop your appreciation of sake, here's an enjoyable and economical way to do so: visit Sake Bar Satsko on a Tuesday or Wednesday night. This East Village hangout, decorated in typical bohemian fashion, offers $20 tastings which include a selection of 6 different sakes accompanied by delicious Japanese appetizers. Park yourself on a barstool, or sit down on a shiny red pillow to admire the 4-page sake menu. You can also indulge in something more substantial, like a plate of jumbo shrimp seasoned with black pepper, fried garlic and scallions. (I especially like the the tuna tartare, which features large chunks of raw marinated tuna glistening with sesame oil.)
Satsko is WiFi-enabled and open till 4 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
Sake Bar Satsko: 202 East 7th St., (212) 614-0933.
Satsko is WiFi-enabled and open till 4 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
Sake Bar Satsko: 202 East 7th St., (212) 614-0933.
Saturday, August 13, 2005
The Best Mango Lassi In NYC
Yesterday was the latest in a long string of sweltering days, and I was in dire need of refreshment. I was craving mango lassi, the Indian yogurt shake. Most Indian restaurants in NYC serve a supersweet version of lassi made with canned mango juice. So, I was expecting the same when I ordered the drink at Hampton Chutney Co. But with my first sip, I noticed an immediate difference: the telltale pulpiness of fresh fruit. The sweetness of the lassi was mostly derived from just-pureed ripe mangos, not sugar. I believe Hampton Chutney Co. may serve the best mango lassi in NYC!
Hampton Chutney Co., 68 Prince Street (212) 226-9996.
Hampton Chutney Co., 68 Prince Street (212) 226-9996.
Sunday, August 07, 2005
Bedford Cheese Shop
Every neighborhood needs a cheese store as fabulous as Williamsburg's Bedford Cheese Shop. I fell in love with this place when the counterperson wordlessly pressed a hefty sample of Comte de Montagne into my hand. The nutty, sweet firm cheese was just what I'd been craving, and soon a quarter-pound of it was mine. (The amusing description for this lovely cheese reads: "This cheese, aged 100 meters above sea level, looks down on you and says, "I'm better than you. Way better.")
Bedford Cheese Shop offers everything from Australian feta to burrata. If you want to make sense of it all, you can purchase Steven Jenkins' Cheese Primer.
But if for some reason you're not in the mood for the cheese display, take advantage of the shelves! Check out the small but well-chosen assortment of bread (I ended up with a round potato-onion loaf), the array of Italian sausages (including sweet and hot sopressata), the jars of PB Loco's Dutch chocolate peanut butter or the candied orange-almond cookies and fig-rosemary wine flats from Red Hook's Fanciulla Foods. Today, I splurged on the aforementioned cheese, a jar of English lemon curd made with free-range eggs, a few sugarplums, some white anchovies, and pear vanilla butter from CMB Sweets!
Bedford Cheese Shop, 218 Bedford Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 599-7588.
Bedford Cheese Shop offers everything from Australian feta to burrata. If you want to make sense of it all, you can purchase Steven Jenkins' Cheese Primer.
But if for some reason you're not in the mood for the cheese display, take advantage of the shelves! Check out the small but well-chosen assortment of bread (I ended up with a round potato-onion loaf), the array of Italian sausages (including sweet and hot sopressata), the jars of PB Loco's Dutch chocolate peanut butter or the candied orange-almond cookies and fig-rosemary wine flats from Red Hook's Fanciulla Foods. Today, I splurged on the aforementioned cheese, a jar of English lemon curd made with free-range eggs, a few sugarplums, some white anchovies, and pear vanilla butter from CMB Sweets!
Bedford Cheese Shop, 218 Bedford Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 599-7588.
Saturday, August 06, 2005
There Is Such Thing As A Free Lunch
Or, more accurately, 15 free lunches, if you win a competition sponsored by macktez.com. Go over to the Landmark Coffee Shop (158 Grand Street), write a review of your meal, and submit it to the Macktez Website by 12 p.m. on August 8. The winner gets two weeks of free lunch!
Sunday, July 31, 2005
Anatomy Of A Cake Tasting
It's wedding season, and yours truly has decided to take the plunge. As you might imagine, cake is one of the reasons I get up in the morning, so I've been having all kinds of wonderful daydreams about a beautiful, scrumptious wedding cake.
I'm not fond of fondant; I like a decadent buttercream that's edible through and through. So, when choosing our vendor, I approached the Queen of Meringue Buttercream Herself: Sarabeth Levine. Sarabeth prides herself on her smooth, rich buttercream, which has the visual perfection of fondant without the waxy texture.
Sarabeth does all cake tastings in her Chelsea Market bakery. It's difficult not to be tempted by the goodies at the counter, and as I waited for our appointment last week, I collected a peach tart, chocolate-chip cookies, blueberry-corn muffins, brownies and a "Sarabeth's Famous Grilled Cheese Sandwich." Then, before I could do any more damage, Sarabeth strode out in a white coat and brought me into the kitchen. She plopped several jars onto a large wooden table, and then brought out some small discs of yellow genoise.
"Um, Sarabeth," I said meekly, "weren't we doing a chocolate cake?" "Chocolate wedding cake is too heavy," she remarked. "Although, I do make a rich, chocolate chocolate truffle cake... but you'll love this, try what I have here." I trusted her implicitly and abandoned my wild ideas for five different tiers of cake (hazelnut mousse! raspberry mousse! etc.).
The jars contained pure buttercream, Callebaut chocolate truffle, chocolate espresso truffle, homemade marmalade, and Sarabeth's famous strawberry-raspberry preserves. Sarabeth slathered the moist genoise with layers of buttercream, marmalade, and a mixture of the chocolate and chocolate espresso truffle. (She had me try the chocolate with and without the added coffee accent; we both agreed that the coffee brought the chocolate truffle to the next rich level.) She then added two more layers of genoise, and put a metal cylinder over the delicious mini-layer cake to shape it. She cut a piece for me, and I was on cloud nine. I could barely concentrate as she explained how she would add a bit of orange juice to the buttercream to complement the marmalade in the filling, and how she always added a bit of buttercream between the layers of cake.
To ensure that I was happy with my decision (apparently, only one in ten people chooses chocolate-orange; many more choose lemon), I was also asked to try the chocolate-strawberry-raspberry combination. Although this was delightful as well, the slight tartness of the marmalade so expertly complemented the rich chocolate truffle as to make up my mind.
Sarabeth then packed up little containers of all the components so that my mother and my intended could taste each of them separately. (She is truly a woman passionate about her ingredients!) We then went into her back office to speak about cake decorations, but all I could think about was that chocolate-coffee-orange-buttercream filling...
Sarabeth's Bakery: Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Ave., (212) 989-2424.
I'm not fond of fondant; I like a decadent buttercream that's edible through and through. So, when choosing our vendor, I approached the Queen of Meringue Buttercream Herself: Sarabeth Levine. Sarabeth prides herself on her smooth, rich buttercream, which has the visual perfection of fondant without the waxy texture.
Sarabeth does all cake tastings in her Chelsea Market bakery. It's difficult not to be tempted by the goodies at the counter, and as I waited for our appointment last week, I collected a peach tart, chocolate-chip cookies, blueberry-corn muffins, brownies and a "Sarabeth's Famous Grilled Cheese Sandwich." Then, before I could do any more damage, Sarabeth strode out in a white coat and brought me into the kitchen. She plopped several jars onto a large wooden table, and then brought out some small discs of yellow genoise.
"Um, Sarabeth," I said meekly, "weren't we doing a chocolate cake?" "Chocolate wedding cake is too heavy," she remarked. "Although, I do make a rich, chocolate chocolate truffle cake... but you'll love this, try what I have here." I trusted her implicitly and abandoned my wild ideas for five different tiers of cake (hazelnut mousse! raspberry mousse! etc.).
The jars contained pure buttercream, Callebaut chocolate truffle, chocolate espresso truffle, homemade marmalade, and Sarabeth's famous strawberry-raspberry preserves. Sarabeth slathered the moist genoise with layers of buttercream, marmalade, and a mixture of the chocolate and chocolate espresso truffle. (She had me try the chocolate with and without the added coffee accent; we both agreed that the coffee brought the chocolate truffle to the next rich level.) She then added two more layers of genoise, and put a metal cylinder over the delicious mini-layer cake to shape it. She cut a piece for me, and I was on cloud nine. I could barely concentrate as she explained how she would add a bit of orange juice to the buttercream to complement the marmalade in the filling, and how she always added a bit of buttercream between the layers of cake.
To ensure that I was happy with my decision (apparently, only one in ten people chooses chocolate-orange; many more choose lemon), I was also asked to try the chocolate-strawberry-raspberry combination. Although this was delightful as well, the slight tartness of the marmalade so expertly complemented the rich chocolate truffle as to make up my mind.
Sarabeth then packed up little containers of all the components so that my mother and my intended could taste each of them separately. (She is truly a woman passionate about her ingredients!) We then went into her back office to speak about cake decorations, but all I could think about was that chocolate-coffee-orange-buttercream filling...
Sarabeth's Bakery: Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Ave., (212) 989-2424.
Tuesday, July 26, 2005
Aburiya Kinnosuke
This new favorite of Japanese businessmen provides the spectacle of Megu on a much more intimate scale. Various delicacies arrive on personal charcoal grills (shichirin), or in hotpots with flames which magically disappear when the meal is ready. Amazingly, Aburiya offers this authentic experience at a fraction of Megu's cost. Last night, a friend and I enjoyed an impressive 7-course feast for only $30 each!
Since the menu was divided into so many categories, we decided to try as many different preparations as possible. We chose a hotpot, a shichirin, a chef's special, a tofu dish, a grilled vegetable, a tsukune (chicken meatball) and an eel dish.
After a cup of roasted green tea, we began with the black sesame tofu. This pudding-like dish, which we ate with wooden spoons, was made especially flavorful with the addition of rich soy sauce. Then, the personal grill was delivered to us with a healthy portion of tarako, or cod roe caviar. The waitress helpfully informed us that the caviar would change color when it was ready to be eaten, and indeed it turned from bright orange to light pink.
Soon, a tray of strips of lemon-zested fresh-water eel was served. For those of you more accustomed to the barbecued glazed eel (unagi) at sushi bars, this eel was white and slightly chewy. There were about 10 strips of the delicious fish on our tray.
The chef's special, a foil-wrapped salmon, was the star of the evening. The experience of eating this tender, moist fish could only be described as sensual. We tore it apart and ate every last bite. We accompanied the salmon with a grilled head of garlic with sweet miso jam.
Then it was time for an oniony chicken meatball, which arrived, interestingly, with a bowl of steamed egg for dipping. (Are you going to ask "which came first?") We'd had a choice of "salt" or "teriyaki" for the chicken, and were glad we'd chosen the latter, as the meatball was glazed with a tasty sweet soy sauce. It was so large that the waitress was able to cut it into 8 piecesa.
We'd also ordered an eel hotpot (there were three choices: eel, mushroom or pork). For most of the evening, I anxiously glanced at the flame, wondering when the treat would be ready. Then, after becoming lost in the enjoyment of the other dishes, I happened to look over to see that the flame had gone out! We pulled off the scorchingly hot lid to reveal steaming glutinous rice covered with sweet barbecued eel. A small plate of sansho pepper and shiso leaves was provided for seasoning.
We would've liked to have tried the sushi specials (fatty tuna, amberjack) or a fried dish (or dessert!), but our stomachs protested. However, I have a feeling that we'll be back at Aburiya Kinnosuke very soon.
Aburiya Kinnosuke: 213 East 45th St., (212) 867-5454.
Since the menu was divided into so many categories, we decided to try as many different preparations as possible. We chose a hotpot, a shichirin, a chef's special, a tofu dish, a grilled vegetable, a tsukune (chicken meatball) and an eel dish.
After a cup of roasted green tea, we began with the black sesame tofu. This pudding-like dish, which we ate with wooden spoons, was made especially flavorful with the addition of rich soy sauce. Then, the personal grill was delivered to us with a healthy portion of tarako, or cod roe caviar. The waitress helpfully informed us that the caviar would change color when it was ready to be eaten, and indeed it turned from bright orange to light pink.
Soon, a tray of strips of lemon-zested fresh-water eel was served. For those of you more accustomed to the barbecued glazed eel (unagi) at sushi bars, this eel was white and slightly chewy. There were about 10 strips of the delicious fish on our tray.
The chef's special, a foil-wrapped salmon, was the star of the evening. The experience of eating this tender, moist fish could only be described as sensual. We tore it apart and ate every last bite. We accompanied the salmon with a grilled head of garlic with sweet miso jam.
Then it was time for an oniony chicken meatball, which arrived, interestingly, with a bowl of steamed egg for dipping. (Are you going to ask "which came first?") We'd had a choice of "salt" or "teriyaki" for the chicken, and were glad we'd chosen the latter, as the meatball was glazed with a tasty sweet soy sauce. It was so large that the waitress was able to cut it into 8 piecesa.
We'd also ordered an eel hotpot (there were three choices: eel, mushroom or pork). For most of the evening, I anxiously glanced at the flame, wondering when the treat would be ready. Then, after becoming lost in the enjoyment of the other dishes, I happened to look over to see that the flame had gone out! We pulled off the scorchingly hot lid to reveal steaming glutinous rice covered with sweet barbecued eel. A small plate of sansho pepper and shiso leaves was provided for seasoning.
We would've liked to have tried the sushi specials (fatty tuna, amberjack) or a fried dish (or dessert!), but our stomachs protested. However, I have a feeling that we'll be back at Aburiya Kinnosuke very soon.
Aburiya Kinnosuke: 213 East 45th St., (212) 867-5454.
Thursday, July 21, 2005
Saravanaas
As I've written before, finding good Indian food in NYC is not an easy task. However, the opening of Saravanaas has truly improved the Indian restaurant scene!
Open since only last Thursday, this cheery little place was packed last night, even 30 minutes before closing. But although there were many patrons, the service was charming and attentive. (A word to the meatophiles: Saravanaas is completely vegetarian.)
The menu includes appetizers, a dosa corner, thalis, a rice corner and a bread corner. I am of the "try as much as you can" school, so I ordered a thali, or, combination meal. Paying lip service to moderation, I asked for the smallest thali, the mini tiffin.
Along came a round silver tray on which sat a gut-busting variety of food. "Is that all for me?" I asked, astonished. There was a Thermos-sized masala dosa with a side of lentil gravy, a portion of idli stew, a mound of roasted farina, coconut chutney and a spicy green mayonnaise-like sauce, and finally, a "sweetmeat." The masala dosa, a kind of crispy crepe, was ultra-light and contained a toothsome spiced mashed potato filling. I'm truly a fan of idli, the little lentil-flour frisbees that are somewhat akin to gnocchi, so I enjoyed the stew of carrots, green beans and idli with a bit of bay leaf and mustard seed. The chili-spiced farina was mixed with onions, tomatoes and peas. Everything was gloriously spicy. "Hot enough for you?" asked the waiter. "We want to see you glow!"
After enjoying a few bites of raisin-studded sweetmeat and a sip of mango lassi, it was finally time to go. (Upon leaving, I noticed a pile of advertisements for a yoga class. As if one could even think of exercising after such a meal!)
Saravanaas: 81 Lexington Ave., (212) 679-0204.
Open since only last Thursday, this cheery little place was packed last night, even 30 minutes before closing. But although there were many patrons, the service was charming and attentive. (A word to the meatophiles: Saravanaas is completely vegetarian.)
The menu includes appetizers, a dosa corner, thalis, a rice corner and a bread corner. I am of the "try as much as you can" school, so I ordered a thali, or, combination meal. Paying lip service to moderation, I asked for the smallest thali, the mini tiffin.
Along came a round silver tray on which sat a gut-busting variety of food. "Is that all for me?" I asked, astonished. There was a Thermos-sized masala dosa with a side of lentil gravy, a portion of idli stew, a mound of roasted farina, coconut chutney and a spicy green mayonnaise-like sauce, and finally, a "sweetmeat." The masala dosa, a kind of crispy crepe, was ultra-light and contained a toothsome spiced mashed potato filling. I'm truly a fan of idli, the little lentil-flour frisbees that are somewhat akin to gnocchi, so I enjoyed the stew of carrots, green beans and idli with a bit of bay leaf and mustard seed. The chili-spiced farina was mixed with onions, tomatoes and peas. Everything was gloriously spicy. "Hot enough for you?" asked the waiter. "We want to see you glow!"
After enjoying a few bites of raisin-studded sweetmeat and a sip of mango lassi, it was finally time to go. (Upon leaving, I noticed a pile of advertisements for a yoga class. As if one could even think of exercising after such a meal!)
Saravanaas: 81 Lexington Ave., (212) 679-0204.
Wednesday, July 13, 2005
Oms/b
Omusubi, or Japanese rice balls stuffed with various fillings, are the perfect picnic food. They're much more portable than sandwiches, since the fillings are tightly packed inside the rice. The rice also protects the perishable fillings against the heat. Usually, omusubi are filled with salmon, tuna, cod roe, or salty plum paste. However, a Manhattan cafe, Oms/b, offers a Baskin-Robbins-like menu of omusubi flavors. Bored of salmon flakes? Try the chili mayo-coated fried shrimp popcorn on chive rice. Tired of tuna? Maybe you should order the marinated ribs on lettuce-wrapped rice, or the buttery sauteed scallops and asparagus on peppered rice with spinach.
Oms/b also serves a variety of refreshing summer desserts. (However, you'll want to eat these right up, as they're too perishable for a picnic.) So, after you've downed a few omusubi, you'll want a nutty black and white sesame panna cotta topped with a blackberry, or a Japanese citrus cheesecake, or a creamy jasmine orange mousse.
Oms/b: 156 East 45th St., (212) 922-9788. The cafe closes at 7:30 p.m.; for the greatest variety of omusubi, make sure to arrive much earlier.
Oms/b also serves a variety of refreshing summer desserts. (However, you'll want to eat these right up, as they're too perishable for a picnic.) So, after you've downed a few omusubi, you'll want a nutty black and white sesame panna cotta topped with a blackberry, or a Japanese citrus cheesecake, or a creamy jasmine orange mousse.
Oms/b: 156 East 45th St., (212) 922-9788. The cafe closes at 7:30 p.m.; for the greatest variety of omusubi, make sure to arrive much earlier.
Tuesday, July 12, 2005
Museum Meals
The recent heat wave has chased me into air-conditioned movie theatres and museums. But I must shamefully admit that upon entering a museum, one of my first acts is to scope out the dining options. An empty stomach inhibits my appreciation of fine art!
However, I generally like to eat a lighter meal before strolling through an exhibition, rather than indulging in a multi-course feast. Last week, I decided to compare light meals at MOMA and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Although I cannot offer you an informed comparison of the exhibitions, I must say that MOMA came out the culinary winner.
At the Met cafeteria, I sat down to a forlorn strip of dried-out salmon with a side of inedible pineapple salsa, tasteless asparagus and potatoes. (In the Met's defense, there was a nice smoothie bar.) But the Bar at MOMA was a more artistic experience on all levels! A hearty artichoke cream soup with Maine lobster, wild mushroom-chorizo wontons, and seared tuna provided my friends and I with much satisfaction. The only problem with such good food at a museum restaurant is that it is difficult to pull yourself away from the table!
However, I generally like to eat a lighter meal before strolling through an exhibition, rather than indulging in a multi-course feast. Last week, I decided to compare light meals at MOMA and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Although I cannot offer you an informed comparison of the exhibitions, I must say that MOMA came out the culinary winner.
At the Met cafeteria, I sat down to a forlorn strip of dried-out salmon with a side of inedible pineapple salsa, tasteless asparagus and potatoes. (In the Met's defense, there was a nice smoothie bar.) But the Bar at MOMA was a more artistic experience on all levels! A hearty artichoke cream soup with Maine lobster, wild mushroom-chorizo wontons, and seared tuna provided my friends and I with much satisfaction. The only problem with such good food at a museum restaurant is that it is difficult to pull yourself away from the table!
Sunday, July 10, 2005
Sunday, July 03, 2005
Fig & Olive
Following in the footsteps of La Table O & Co., the new Fig & Olive opened its doors on the Upper East Side. The two-month old Mediterranean cafe sports an olive bar and a pantry full of extra-virgin olive oil from France, Italy and Spain. Complementary olive oil tastings are offered; yesterday, the tasting consisted of three oils described as "warm and buttery," "peppery" and "crisp."
The cafe serves a delightful weekend brunch; I enjoyed the Mediterranean eggs served on homemade fougasse with marinated raw salmon, dill and white cheese. Other menu items include various carpaccios such as Spanish ham with Aguibal Manzanilla olive oil, and a selection of tartines, salads and soups. After your meal, don't forget to take home a bag of fig walnut biscotti or fresh-baked honey-lavender madeleines.
So if your holiday plans don't include Provence, just hop a cab to Lexington Avenue!
Fig & Olive: 808 Lexington Ave., (212) 207-4555
The cafe serves a delightful weekend brunch; I enjoyed the Mediterranean eggs served on homemade fougasse with marinated raw salmon, dill and white cheese. Other menu items include various carpaccios such as Spanish ham with Aguibal Manzanilla olive oil, and a selection of tartines, salads and soups. After your meal, don't forget to take home a bag of fig walnut biscotti or fresh-baked honey-lavender madeleines.
So if your holiday plans don't include Provence, just hop a cab to Lexington Avenue!
Fig & Olive: 808 Lexington Ave., (212) 207-4555
Thursday, June 30, 2005
Adrienne's Pizza Bar
It didn't take long for the hordes of downtown pizza fanatics to discover Adrienne's! At 12:05 p.m. yesterday, there were only a couple bar seats left and no tables. Now, Stone Street is the spot for Swedish open-faced sandwiches, decadent French pastries, and awesome pan pizza.
$15 will get you 10 hefty square slices (enough for 3 people) served in a big rectangular pan. And don't spend your money on extra cheese... Parmesan is already baked into the crispy crust, and you'll also be served a dish of freshly shredded cheese to sprinkle to your heart's content.
Adrienne's Pizza Bar: 54 Stone St., (212) 248-3838. Get there early!
$15 will get you 10 hefty square slices (enough for 3 people) served in a big rectangular pan. And don't spend your money on extra cheese... Parmesan is already baked into the crispy crust, and you'll also be served a dish of freshly shredded cheese to sprinkle to your heart's content.
Adrienne's Pizza Bar: 54 Stone St., (212) 248-3838. Get there early!
Wednesday, June 29, 2005
Thai Pot - Forest Hills Gets Spicy (Finally!)
It might not be Sripraphai, but the new Thai Pot on Queens Boulevard knows how to serve up some spice! The kitchen turns up the heat with long chilies, fire-roasted red chili paste and chili oil. Tonight, a catfish special was full of chili seeds (just the way I like it). So if you don't feel like going to Woodside, yet you want something more piquant than a pierogi, I suggest you head over to Thai Pot!
Thai Pot: 103-07 Queens Blvd., Forest Hills, (718) 897-3898.
Thai Pot: 103-07 Queens Blvd., Forest Hills, (718) 897-3898.
Monday, June 27, 2005
Brooklyn Fish Camp
I've always been intimidated by the line at Mary's Fish Camp, so I was excited to hear about the opening of their new sister restaurant, Brooklyn Fish Camp. This weekend, I scurried over to Park Slope. Fortunately, I was able to score a table at lunchtime, but the waitress informed me that the dinner scene is much more competitive.
The blue-walled space is quite inviting; there's a long, narrow bar at the entrance and an outdoor dining area in the back. The menu is almost identical to Mary's... you'll find the same lobster knuckles, Canadian steamers, etc. On the day I went, there were four fish specials: black tilapia, Costa Rican red snapper, dourade and black sea bass.
At the table next to me, a man had made short work of an obviously gargantuan fish, leaving a pile of bones and tail on a small dish. I wondered what had been so delicious. "He had the tilapia," said my waitress. "Of all the fish we have today, I recommend that one if you want fried fish. It comes with grilled vegetables." I decided to add a side of Old Bay-seasoned matchstick fries to my order.
I really shouldn't have; the pile of fries must have measured half a foot in height. And the fish would have been a meal for Moby Dick! A giant batter-fried tilapia overwhelmed the plate, crushing a timid assortment of sliced vegetables. The man next to me chuckled. "You should've asked them to fillet it for you."
Thus challenged, I made an effort to consume the entire tilapia. I relished the tasty, crunchy batter and tore away at the moist, sweet fish underneath. But after eating only half, I was already full. There was no way I could scale that mountain of fries. Still, the man was impressed. "Great job!"
The waitress, also impressed, asked if I would like to finish with a steamed lemon pudding, a fresh strawberry shortcake, or a hot fudge sundae with gelato from Il Laboratorio del Gelato. I had to decline. (But I couldn't help noticing later that the nearby Chocolate Room has a new summer menu, which features white chocolate lemon mousse, chocolate strawberry shortcake and frozen hot chocolate.)
Brooklyn Fish Camp: 162 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 783-3264.
The blue-walled space is quite inviting; there's a long, narrow bar at the entrance and an outdoor dining area in the back. The menu is almost identical to Mary's... you'll find the same lobster knuckles, Canadian steamers, etc. On the day I went, there were four fish specials: black tilapia, Costa Rican red snapper, dourade and black sea bass.
At the table next to me, a man had made short work of an obviously gargantuan fish, leaving a pile of bones and tail on a small dish. I wondered what had been so delicious. "He had the tilapia," said my waitress. "Of all the fish we have today, I recommend that one if you want fried fish. It comes with grilled vegetables." I decided to add a side of Old Bay-seasoned matchstick fries to my order.
I really shouldn't have; the pile of fries must have measured half a foot in height. And the fish would have been a meal for Moby Dick! A giant batter-fried tilapia overwhelmed the plate, crushing a timid assortment of sliced vegetables. The man next to me chuckled. "You should've asked them to fillet it for you."
Thus challenged, I made an effort to consume the entire tilapia. I relished the tasty, crunchy batter and tore away at the moist, sweet fish underneath. But after eating only half, I was already full. There was no way I could scale that mountain of fries. Still, the man was impressed. "Great job!"
The waitress, also impressed, asked if I would like to finish with a steamed lemon pudding, a fresh strawberry shortcake, or a hot fudge sundae with gelato from Il Laboratorio del Gelato. I had to decline. (But I couldn't help noticing later that the nearby Chocolate Room has a new summer menu, which features white chocolate lemon mousse, chocolate strawberry shortcake and frozen hot chocolate.)
Brooklyn Fish Camp: 162 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 783-3264.
Tuesday, June 21, 2005
Find Any Foodstuff
I adore the food search function of Manhattan's Menupages.com.
In just 5 seconds, I found 23 restaurants in the Village that serve frites. Lobster is an item on 85 Upper West Side menus, and there are 20 places on the Lower East Side that offer chocolate cake! If there is someone in your family whose diet consists of only one food, this search will be an invaluable addition to your Favorites folder.
In just 5 seconds, I found 23 restaurants in the Village that serve frites. Lobster is an item on 85 Upper West Side menus, and there are 20 places on the Lower East Side that offer chocolate cake! If there is someone in your family whose diet consists of only one food, this search will be an invaluable addition to your Favorites folder.
Friday, June 17, 2005
Sweets News
Wednesday, June 15, 2005
Margaritas, Anyone?
I've just returned from the Canadian Rockies, where the daytime temperature was around 60 degrees. As you can imagine, I'm having trouble adjusting to the heat wave you all have been suffering through. So, I've decided to post the Metropolitan Pavilion's prickly pear margarita recipe... because desert temperatures call for new ways to consume cactus.
9 ounces white tequila
4 ounces orange-flavored liqueur (recommended: Cointreau)
4 ounces cactus pear juice, plus more for the rim
2 ounces fresh lime juice
1 1/2 cups crushed ice
Coarse salt, optional
Lime wedges, for garnish
Place tequila, orange liqueur, cactus pear juice, lime juice, and ice in a blender and blend until smooth. Carefully pour a few ounces of cactus pear juice onto a plate and a few ounces of salt onto another plate. Dip the rim of each margarita glass into the juice and then into the salt. Pour margaritas into each glass and garnish with a lime wedge.
9 ounces white tequila
4 ounces orange-flavored liqueur (recommended: Cointreau)
4 ounces cactus pear juice, plus more for the rim
2 ounces fresh lime juice
1 1/2 cups crushed ice
Coarse salt, optional
Lime wedges, for garnish
Place tequila, orange liqueur, cactus pear juice, lime juice, and ice in a blender and blend until smooth. Carefully pour a few ounces of cactus pear juice onto a plate and a few ounces of salt onto another plate. Dip the rim of each margarita glass into the juice and then into the salt. Pour margaritas into each glass and garnish with a lime wedge.
Friday, May 20, 2005
A Much-Needed Vacation
Even the most die-hard New Yorker needs a break from the action once in a while. To that end, I am going on vacation for about a month. In my brief absence, I recommend that you make several trips to Ama (CLOSED AS OF 6/09) to enjoy such delights as: panzarotti (miniature fried calzones bursting with melted cheese), rock shrimp scattered over fava bean lasagne, and orecchiette in an intensely buttery sauce with crumbled sweet sausage. Oh, and I mustn't leave you without a chocolate suggestion: the cioccolato caldo e freddo, a scoop of pudding-rich chocolate gelato next to its warm, cakey counterpart. Enjoy!
(P.S. Since I am never far from a computer, or for that matter, a restaurant, I may decide to post at Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page... but only if I consume something sufficiently delicious.)
Ama: 48 MacDougal St., (212) 358-1707.
(P.S. Since I am never far from a computer, or for that matter, a restaurant, I may decide to post at Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page... but only if I consume something sufficiently delicious.)
Ama: 48 MacDougal St., (212) 358-1707.
Tuesday, May 17, 2005
The Ten Best Pastry Chefs in America
Last night, I lived every dessert lover's dream: I attended Chocolatier's "Ten Best Pastry Chefs in America" awards! Fortunately for us New Yorkers, six of the chefs can be found concocting their sweet creations right in our city. So, when you dine at Daniel, Babbo, Chanterelle, Spice Market, 66, WD-50 or a B.R. Guest restaurant, make sure you leave room for dessert!
Friday, May 13, 2005
A Very Important Sweets News Item
Pastry lovers rejoice: the Bouley Bakery re-opened yesterday! Triple-chocolate muffins, dense dark chocolate brownies, orange tarts, palmiers and more are now available right across the street from the restaurant. (And for those more inclined towards the savory, the next-door market, "Upstairs," will soon feature a sushi bar and cooking classes.)
Bouley Bakery Market: 130 West Broadway, (212) 219-1011.
Bouley Bakery Market: 130 West Broadway, (212) 219-1011.
Monday, May 09, 2005
Cafe Regular
Although Brooklyn seems to be a controversial subject lately, even the borough's detractors must admit that one of NYC's best cappuccinos can be found there. Where, exactly? At Cafe Regular, on 11th Street off of 5th Avenue.
This tiny cafe, so narrow that you can almost reach an arm across it, offers only the bare essentials: a few beverages, baked goods, and hard-boiled eggs. But what essentials they are! La Colombe Nizza beans, which are billed as boasting a "sweet flavor and a softer Northern Italian style," provide the basis for the cafe's espressos, cappuccinos and lattes. Cappuccinos sport a thick layer of fluffy foam. You can accompany your drink with a slice of cinnamon-striped pound cake from Marquet, or just a copy of the London Review of Books (several editions are draped across the doorway for your reading pleasure).
Cafe Regular: 318A 11th St., Brooklyn, (718) 768-4170.
This tiny cafe, so narrow that you can almost reach an arm across it, offers only the bare essentials: a few beverages, baked goods, and hard-boiled eggs. But what essentials they are! La Colombe Nizza beans, which are billed as boasting a "sweet flavor and a softer Northern Italian style," provide the basis for the cafe's espressos, cappuccinos and lattes. Cappuccinos sport a thick layer of fluffy foam. You can accompany your drink with a slice of cinnamon-striped pound cake from Marquet, or just a copy of the London Review of Books (several editions are draped across the doorway for your reading pleasure).
Cafe Regular: 318A 11th St., Brooklyn, (718) 768-4170.
Tuesday, May 03, 2005
Sweets News
Here are your Sweets News items for May 3, 2005:
If you're a fan of the Apprentice, you may have noticed that in one episode, contestants were given the task of creating two new flavors of Ciao Bella Gelato. While watching the program, you probably longed for a refreshing scoop of Red Velvet or Vanilla Doughnut. Now, you finally have your chance to try these intriguing new flavors. The new Trump Ice Cream Parlor opened up last Saturday, and Ciao Bella is serving up its delicious premium gelato. So don't be out of the scoop! Trump Ice Cream Parlor: 725 5th Ave., (212) 715-7290.
This may not be news to you, but it was to me! The famous floral cupcakes of Cupcake Cafe are now being sold at Books of Wonder, a children's book store at 18 West 18th St. What better incentive is there for your kids to improve their reading skills?
Wednesday, April 27, 2005
West Side Flavor!
Fast forward to May 19, 2005 at 6:30 p.m. You're so hungry that you can't decide where to dine. Should you feast on sushi at Haru, or are you in the mood for a 22 oz. ribeye at Jacques-Imo? Or maybe you're pining for the paella at Sugar Bar when you suddenly crave Ruby Foo's Peking duck.
I'm about to make your dinner decision much easier. On May 19, you can experience all of these fine restaurants at once, along with goodies from Gabriel's, Compass, Amy's Bread, Ruby et Violette and Soutine Bakery! Where? At the exciting "West Side Flavor," an event that benefits the West End Intergenerational Residence.
In between bites, you'll be able to bid on items like a two-pound box of chocolate truffles and handmade Helen Reiss Jewelry. (If I win the truffles, I promise to share them with you.)
See you there!
West Side Flavor will take place at 6:30 p.m. on Thursday, May 19 at the Congregation Rodeph Sholom, 7 West 83rd St. For more information, please call (212) 769-1685.
I'm about to make your dinner decision much easier. On May 19, you can experience all of these fine restaurants at once, along with goodies from Gabriel's, Compass, Amy's Bread, Ruby et Violette and Soutine Bakery! Where? At the exciting "West Side Flavor," an event that benefits the West End Intergenerational Residence.
In between bites, you'll be able to bid on items like a two-pound box of chocolate truffles and handmade Helen Reiss Jewelry. (If I win the truffles, I promise to share them with you.)
See you there!
West Side Flavor will take place at 6:30 p.m. on Thursday, May 19 at the Congregation Rodeph Sholom, 7 West 83rd St. For more information, please call (212) 769-1685.
Tuesday, April 26, 2005
Mother's Day Is May 8
If you happen to run into my mother, please don't let it slip that I'll be surprising her with 8 brownies from Baked NYC. I wonder which brownie she'll dive into first - the peanut butter, the chile cinnamon, or the original dark chocolate?
Baked NYC: 359 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn, (718) 222-0345.
Baked NYC: 359 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn, (718) 222-0345.
Tuesday, April 19, 2005
Murray's Cheese Shop
I don't know when the stretch of Bleecker Street between Leroy and Morton turned into a mini Chelsea Market, but I imagine that the transformation occurred this fall. In November, Murray's Cheese, having bought a large building, moved across the street and soon started renting space to Amy's Bread and Wild Edibles. Now, a shopper needs several hours to fully absorb the cornucopia of deliciousness that is Bleecker Street.
Tonight, I tackled the new, improved Murray's Cheese. (Amy's and Wild Edibles, don't worry, you're next.) Although the salespeople at the old location had been generous with samples and advice, the store was so cramped that a bit of tension always hung in the air. The new store is vast and welcoming. There's even a room upstairs for cheese education!
I was greeted by an impressive assortment of chorizo and aged cheeses. The first thing that went into my bag was a hunk of Prima Donna, described as a popular Dutch cheese made with Italian cultures. I then looked to my right and noticed many different prepared foods, many involving cheese. There were mascarpone bacon tarts, cheddar onion pies, tins of macaroni and cheese, goat cheese watercress panini... I was speechless!
Walking towards the dairy case on the left, I noticed that Murray's now sells their own smoked salmon in addition to their famous horseradish cream cheese. There were containers of creme fraiche, homemade basil pesto, grillable halloumi cheese, crumbled blue Stilton, fresh mozzarella, and many other goodies. Just past the dairy case were shelves of jarred condiments. I picked up some hazelnut cream, roasted piquillo peppers, and lavender honey with mixed nuts.
Between the dairy case and the cheese case there was dried pasta in bulk, and even a selection of my favorite food: chocolate! Of course I had to pick up the box of single-bean chocolates from ten different countries.
Moving towards the cheese case, I was entranced with a black truffle-dusted Brie and a wedge of baked lemon ricotta. The cheese descriptions on the blackboard were irresistible... how could you not buy a Gruyere Vieux described as tasting "like white chocolate?" (I succumbed.)
Although I somehow resisted the Cerignola olives, I did grab a loaf of Amy's Pugliese bread. However, my shopping bag was now so heavy that I knew it was time to go.
Murray's Cheese: 254 Bleecker St., (212) 243-3289.
Tonight, I tackled the new, improved Murray's Cheese. (Amy's and Wild Edibles, don't worry, you're next.) Although the salespeople at the old location had been generous with samples and advice, the store was so cramped that a bit of tension always hung in the air. The new store is vast and welcoming. There's even a room upstairs for cheese education!
I was greeted by an impressive assortment of chorizo and aged cheeses. The first thing that went into my bag was a hunk of Prima Donna, described as a popular Dutch cheese made with Italian cultures. I then looked to my right and noticed many different prepared foods, many involving cheese. There were mascarpone bacon tarts, cheddar onion pies, tins of macaroni and cheese, goat cheese watercress panini... I was speechless!
Walking towards the dairy case on the left, I noticed that Murray's now sells their own smoked salmon in addition to their famous horseradish cream cheese. There were containers of creme fraiche, homemade basil pesto, grillable halloumi cheese, crumbled blue Stilton, fresh mozzarella, and many other goodies. Just past the dairy case were shelves of jarred condiments. I picked up some hazelnut cream, roasted piquillo peppers, and lavender honey with mixed nuts.
Between the dairy case and the cheese case there was dried pasta in bulk, and even a selection of my favorite food: chocolate! Of course I had to pick up the box of single-bean chocolates from ten different countries.
Moving towards the cheese case, I was entranced with a black truffle-dusted Brie and a wedge of baked lemon ricotta. The cheese descriptions on the blackboard were irresistible... how could you not buy a Gruyere Vieux described as tasting "like white chocolate?" (I succumbed.)
Although I somehow resisted the Cerignola olives, I did grab a loaf of Amy's Pugliese bread. However, my shopping bag was now so heavy that I knew it was time to go.
Murray's Cheese: 254 Bleecker St., (212) 243-3289.
Friday, April 08, 2005
Sweets News
Warm, molten-centered chocolate souffle cake is a popular dessert item at fine New York restaurants. However, one's craving for this dessert may be so intense as to make sitting through dinner unbearable! Fortunately, immediate gratification is now available in the form of individual, sugar-powdered chocolate souffles at Cafe Zaiya. Made to order, the luscious little cakes boast authentically gooey insides. And they're only $1.50!
Café Zaiya: 18 E. 41st St. (212) 779-0600.
(In more unsettling news, my childhood idol, the Cookie Monster, is going on a diet.)
Café Zaiya: 18 E. 41st St. (212) 779-0600.
(In more unsettling news, my childhood idol, the Cookie Monster, is going on a diet.)
Sunday, April 03, 2005
The Chocolate Room
My choco-meter suddenly swung wildly to the right as I walked down Park Slope's 5th Avenue today. There before me, in all of its glory, was The Chocolate Room. I'd been meaning to visit this cafe ever since it opened in February.
The Chocolate Room features the luxurious Knipschildt truffles, which I first discovered at the 2002 Chocolate Show. (Yes, my site now catalogues almost 4 years of gluttony!) But don't think that the offerings stop there. Co-owner Naomi bills The Chocolate Room as "the total chocolate experience," and to that end, she has employed the services of a chocolate-obsessed pastry chef. I recommend that you sit yourself down at a green marble table and order one of the extraordinary desserts. (The chocolate-iced cupcakes and brownies at the counter will still be there to take home when you're finished. Well, they might be.)
Hot chocolate is offered in two strengths: 38% and 60% chocolate. Naturally, I ordered the inky dark hot chocolate, which must be one of the richest beverages ever invented. In addition to hot chocolate, the elegant drink menu features wine, port, and, fittingly, Brooklyn Brewery's Black Chocolate Stout.
It was a struggle to decide among the espresso-chocolate flan, chocolate fondue, chocolate pudding, and lemon-buttermilk souffle drizzled with chocolate. My eventual choice was the chocolate-orange brioche bread pudding. Served in a citrusy coulis, the pudding was not too sweet, and was studded with welcome bursts of dark melted chocolate and pearls of sweet toffee.
I knew that I needed to bring the chocolate experience home for future enjoyment, so I bought an intriguing hot chocolate and coffee stick (a sort of chocolate lollipop intended to melt into one's coffee) and a box of 10 truffles. Naomi said helpfully, "They're less expensive if you choose them yourself instead of buying a pre-packaged box." I ended up with an assortment of caramel-lavender, rosewater, strawberry-lemon-thyme, and raspberry-peppercorn chocolates.
The Chocolate Room: 86 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 783-2900. Cash only.
The Chocolate Room features the luxurious Knipschildt truffles, which I first discovered at the 2002 Chocolate Show. (Yes, my site now catalogues almost 4 years of gluttony!) But don't think that the offerings stop there. Co-owner Naomi bills The Chocolate Room as "the total chocolate experience," and to that end, she has employed the services of a chocolate-obsessed pastry chef. I recommend that you sit yourself down at a green marble table and order one of the extraordinary desserts. (The chocolate-iced cupcakes and brownies at the counter will still be there to take home when you're finished. Well, they might be.)
Hot chocolate is offered in two strengths: 38% and 60% chocolate. Naturally, I ordered the inky dark hot chocolate, which must be one of the richest beverages ever invented. In addition to hot chocolate, the elegant drink menu features wine, port, and, fittingly, Brooklyn Brewery's Black Chocolate Stout.
It was a struggle to decide among the espresso-chocolate flan, chocolate fondue, chocolate pudding, and lemon-buttermilk souffle drizzled with chocolate. My eventual choice was the chocolate-orange brioche bread pudding. Served in a citrusy coulis, the pudding was not too sweet, and was studded with welcome bursts of dark melted chocolate and pearls of sweet toffee.
I knew that I needed to bring the chocolate experience home for future enjoyment, so I bought an intriguing hot chocolate and coffee stick (a sort of chocolate lollipop intended to melt into one's coffee) and a box of 10 truffles. Naomi said helpfully, "They're less expensive if you choose them yourself instead of buying a pre-packaged box." I ended up with an assortment of caramel-lavender, rosewater, strawberry-lemon-thyme, and raspberry-peppercorn chocolates.
The Chocolate Room: 86 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 783-2900. Cash only.
Friday, April 01, 2005
Two Tasty Events
Here are two events to tempt the palate:
- Pinot and Pork Tour
April 11, 6:30 p.m.
Ruby Falls, 609 West 29th St.
Pinot and Pork is a festival which celebrates the versatility of "the other white meat" and matches it with select Pinot Noirs from France and California. Enjoy a live band while sampling traditional and Japanese barbeque. Tickets are on sale at www.kobrandevents.com. - Adventures in the Global Kitchen: Exquisite Mushrooms
April 12, 7 p.m.
American Museum of Natural History (Linder Theatre), Central Park West at 79th St.
Not only will you learn about the global history of mushrooms during this lecture, but you'll also feast on bacon and black-truffle butter canapés! Call (212) 769-5200 to buy a ticket.
Thursday, March 31, 2005
Takahachi Tribeca
So you're craving Nobu, but you can't even get into Next Door Nobu? Just walk a few blocks from Franklin to Duane, where you'll find Takahachi Tribeca. This nouveau Japanese restaurant uses the same excellent fish supplier as Nobu, but prices are more reasonable!
In homage to the neighborhood film festival, chef Jun Orita has named his creative maki after famous movies. Try the "Passage To India," a curried tuna, avocado and mango roll, or the "Godfather," a mouthful of fried oysters, cucumber and Gorgonzola. If your tastes run to the more traditional, there's an extensive a la carte sushi menu, as well as entrees like grilled organic chicken teriyaki, diced prime rib in avocado wasabi sauce, and grilled salmon in green tea salt. The latter was my choice last night; the crispy-skinned salmon arrived with a small salad of cold udon, julienned shiitakes with ginger, and a bowl of snow peas in sweet white miso sauce. I must also mention the vibrant yuzu, white miso and snow pea soup, and the yellowtail tartare appetizer. The tartare, served in a bamboo leaf, was a delectable mixture of yellowtail, creamy sea urchin and crunchy smelt roe.
If only I'd had room for the pumpkin mousse...
Takahachi Tribeca: 145 Duane St., (212) 571-1830.
In homage to the neighborhood film festival, chef Jun Orita has named his creative maki after famous movies. Try the "Passage To India," a curried tuna, avocado and mango roll, or the "Godfather," a mouthful of fried oysters, cucumber and Gorgonzola. If your tastes run to the more traditional, there's an extensive a la carte sushi menu, as well as entrees like grilled organic chicken teriyaki, diced prime rib in avocado wasabi sauce, and grilled salmon in green tea salt. The latter was my choice last night; the crispy-skinned salmon arrived with a small salad of cold udon, julienned shiitakes with ginger, and a bowl of snow peas in sweet white miso sauce. I must also mention the vibrant yuzu, white miso and snow pea soup, and the yellowtail tartare appetizer. The tartare, served in a bamboo leaf, was a delectable mixture of yellowtail, creamy sea urchin and crunchy smelt roe.
If only I'd had room for the pumpkin mousse...
Takahachi Tribeca: 145 Duane St., (212) 571-1830.
Friday, March 25, 2005
Easter Eggs
If you want to quickly prepare a half-dozen hard-boiled eggs for Easter, this gadget comes in quite handy. You'll never run the risk of a cracked shell or a runny yolk ever again.
Another way to enjoy Easter eggs this year is to pick up a loaf of cardamom bread at Amy's Bread. Hard-boiled eggs are baked into the circular loaf. (This bread has been selling out before 11 a.m., so if you miss the deadline, ask for the eggy, sugar-streaked hot cross buns.)
Amy's Bread: Chelsea Market, 75 9th Ave., (212) 462-4338.
Another way to enjoy Easter eggs this year is to pick up a loaf of cardamom bread at Amy's Bread. Hard-boiled eggs are baked into the circular loaf. (This bread has been selling out before 11 a.m., so if you miss the deadline, ask for the eggy, sugar-streaked hot cross buns.)
Amy's Bread: Chelsea Market, 75 9th Ave., (212) 462-4338.
Wednesday, March 23, 2005
A Sign of Spring
Although it's snowing today, I'm confident that spring has sprung. Why? Because last night, I saw the telltale words "fiddlehead ferns" on the menu at Parish & Co (Closed in 2006). These tasty green curlicues, available only in earliest spring, added some crunch to my delectable garbanzo and wheatberry salad in a soy-ginger dressing.
A glass of Riesling, an entrée of rich, buttered potato gnocchi accented with shallots and fried sage, and a lemongrass-lime crème brulee completed my celebration of the season's arrival. To Spring!
Parish & Co.: 202 9th Ave., (212) 414-4988.
A glass of Riesling, an entrée of rich, buttered potato gnocchi accented with shallots and fried sage, and a lemongrass-lime crème brulee completed my celebration of the season's arrival. To Spring!
Parish & Co.: 202 9th Ave., (212) 414-4988.
Thursday, March 17, 2005
Alfanoose
Downtown workers were crestfallen when the original Alfanoose on Fulton Street closed. There was much speculation about the cause of the closing; had the rents gone up or had the business gone down?
Fortunately, those in search of a falafel fix need not waste any more time in idle speculation! Such time would be better spent enjoying the mouthwatering Middle Eastern cuisine at the new, improved Alfanoose. Now with plenty of room and an expanded menu, this beloved restaurant is a destination even for those who have no other reason to visit the Financial District.
All of the traditional sandwiches such as falafel, hummus, and baba ganoush are offered, as well as luscious charcoal-grilled lamb shawarma. For a side dish, there are not just one but *three* versions of mojadara, the traditional lentil pilaf topped with a heap of crisp fried onions. The tangy, tahini-yogurt foul mudamas is excellent as well. (For more food than you know what to do with, order a meat platter: your choice of lamb, chicken, or meat kibbeh comes with your choice of pilaf or green salad, a choice of hummus, baba ganoush or foul mudamas, and best of all, a homemade rolled-up pita bread!
Alfanoose Middle Eastern Cuisine: 8 Maiden Lane, (212) 528-4669.
Fortunately, those in search of a falafel fix need not waste any more time in idle speculation! Such time would be better spent enjoying the mouthwatering Middle Eastern cuisine at the new, improved Alfanoose. Now with plenty of room and an expanded menu, this beloved restaurant is a destination even for those who have no other reason to visit the Financial District.
All of the traditional sandwiches such as falafel, hummus, and baba ganoush are offered, as well as luscious charcoal-grilled lamb shawarma. For a side dish, there are not just one but *three* versions of mojadara, the traditional lentil pilaf topped with a heap of crisp fried onions. The tangy, tahini-yogurt foul mudamas is excellent as well. (For more food than you know what to do with, order a meat platter: your choice of lamb, chicken, or meat kibbeh comes with your choice of pilaf or green salad, a choice of hummus, baba ganoush or foul mudamas, and best of all, a homemade rolled-up pita bread!
Alfanoose Middle Eastern Cuisine: 8 Maiden Lane, (212) 528-4669.
Monday, March 07, 2005
Estiatorio Milos
I know there are much less expensive places to get a great piece of fish, but I've had a soft spot for Milos ever since I first visited about 7 years ago. Maybe it's the open-air market atmosphere... the diner can actually choose a clear-eyed fish right off of its bed of ice. Or maybe it's the loftlike, airy room festooned with parasols. More likely, it's the loukoumades. (More about that later.)
On Friday night, Milos was as packed as if it had just opened last week. Fortunately, my early reservation enabled my mother and I to sit at a lovely corner table.
We started with the Milos Special: a plate of potato-chip-thin fried eggplant and zucchini accented with four chunks of tangy saganaki (tangy melted sheep's milk cheese inside a golden crust).
The entree decision was more difficult than we'd anticipated. Naturally, we wanted whole fish, but there were at least 20 different kinds to choose from. Milos's fish menu is divided into North American and European varieties, and the flavor of each is described in detail. Some fish are only available for two diners to share. (By the way, for those "non-afishanados" among you, there's also a 26-oz. ribeye on the menu.)
I convinced my mother to forgo the Dover sole in favor of the loup de mer ("Europe's most sought-after fish," according to the menu). A whole fish for two and a side of potatoes may sound like a deceptively simple meal, but at Milos it is an explosion of flavor. The olive-oil-bathed potatoes, interspersed with a few sweet cherry tomatoes, were fragrant with garlic, scallions and red onions. The firm-fleshed white loup de mer was downright extraordinary in a light lemon-caper sauce, the meat sweet and the skin toothsomely crispy. I could easily go on the Mediterranean diet if I ate at Milos every day!
Of course, we did indulge in a decadent dessert. The aforementioned loukoumades, hot walnut-sprinkled dough fritters in a thyme-honey-cinnamon syrup, were garnished with a bit of mint. "Take them home so I don't eat any more of them!" pleaded my mother.
Estiatorio Milos: 125 West 55th St., (212) 245-7400.
On Friday night, Milos was as packed as if it had just opened last week. Fortunately, my early reservation enabled my mother and I to sit at a lovely corner table.
We started with the Milos Special: a plate of potato-chip-thin fried eggplant and zucchini accented with four chunks of tangy saganaki (tangy melted sheep's milk cheese inside a golden crust).
The entree decision was more difficult than we'd anticipated. Naturally, we wanted whole fish, but there were at least 20 different kinds to choose from. Milos's fish menu is divided into North American and European varieties, and the flavor of each is described in detail. Some fish are only available for two diners to share. (By the way, for those "non-afishanados" among you, there's also a 26-oz. ribeye on the menu.)
I convinced my mother to forgo the Dover sole in favor of the loup de mer ("Europe's most sought-after fish," according to the menu). A whole fish for two and a side of potatoes may sound like a deceptively simple meal, but at Milos it is an explosion of flavor. The olive-oil-bathed potatoes, interspersed with a few sweet cherry tomatoes, were fragrant with garlic, scallions and red onions. The firm-fleshed white loup de mer was downright extraordinary in a light lemon-caper sauce, the meat sweet and the skin toothsomely crispy. I could easily go on the Mediterranean diet if I ate at Milos every day!
Of course, we did indulge in a decadent dessert. The aforementioned loukoumades, hot walnut-sprinkled dough fritters in a thyme-honey-cinnamon syrup, were garnished with a bit of mint. "Take them home so I don't eat any more of them!" pleaded my mother.
Estiatorio Milos: 125 West 55th St., (212) 245-7400.
Saturday, February 26, 2005
Sweets News
Here are your Sweets News items for February 26, 2005:
Mary's Dairy has opened up a new branch at 158 1st Avenue. In addition to super-premium ice cream, the store is now offering Valrhona-coated fruits, pretzels, marshmallows and graham crackers.
Cha-An, a Japanese "tea & sweets" house, has opened at 230 East 9th Street. Try the green-tea truffles and black sesame creme brulee!
Tarallucci E Vino, the authentic Italian pastry and sandwich shop at 163 First Avenue, is now selling boxed MarieBelle truffles.
And finally, if you think The Gates look good enough to eat, Two Little Red Hens is paying homage to the exhibit by serving up cupcakes with "saffron-colored" icing. (Sunday is the last day to enjoy them!)
Monday, February 21, 2005
La Palapa Rockola
Walking through the West Village on a cold, windy day, I craved some hearty fare. My plan was to head down to No. 26 for a big sandwich on ciabatta, but I happened to notice La Palapa Rockola on the way. It had somehow slipped my mind that the popular East Village Mexican had opened a 6th Avenue outpost.
My stomach growled. The restaurant manager saw me peering intensely into the restaurant window and opened the door. "Why don't you come inside, it's cold out there." That bit of hospitality (and the promise of rice and beans) was enough to change my plans. Happily, I sat down to a cup of Moka D'Oro and looked over the menu.
The specials included an enticing roasted corn soup. On the regular menu were tortas (Mexican sandwiches), assorted quesadillas and tacos stuffed with such goodies as chile-rubbed pork and char-grilled marinated skirt steak, large entrees like enchiladas and shrimp in garlic sauce, and even a 3-course meal that ended with one's choice of Mexican chocolate pudding or flan.
I had a feeling that I'd be eating quite a lot, so I decided not to fill up on the hand-cut tortilla chips. I started with the soup, which was a delicious, creamy puree of sweet roasted corn with a mound of huitlacoche (corn mushrooms) and tangy sour cream floating on top. The hearty soup was almost a meal in itself.
Never one to stop at soup, however, I also ordered a poblano chile quesadilla and a side of beans and rice. Although La Palapa Rockola serves its quesadillas in flour tortillas, my request for a corn tortilla was cheerfully accommodated. The slightly crisp tortilla, cut in quarters, was chock-full of melted cheese and spicy peppers. I dipped it in salsa verde and pico de gallo. The refried black beans were sprinkled with melted queso anejo, and the tomato rice was fragrant with saffron. I was certainly glad I'd stopped in!
La Palapa Rockola: 359 6th Ave., (212) 243-6870.
My stomach growled. The restaurant manager saw me peering intensely into the restaurant window and opened the door. "Why don't you come inside, it's cold out there." That bit of hospitality (and the promise of rice and beans) was enough to change my plans. Happily, I sat down to a cup of Moka D'Oro and looked over the menu.
The specials included an enticing roasted corn soup. On the regular menu were tortas (Mexican sandwiches), assorted quesadillas and tacos stuffed with such goodies as chile-rubbed pork and char-grilled marinated skirt steak, large entrees like enchiladas and shrimp in garlic sauce, and even a 3-course meal that ended with one's choice of Mexican chocolate pudding or flan.
I had a feeling that I'd be eating quite a lot, so I decided not to fill up on the hand-cut tortilla chips. I started with the soup, which was a delicious, creamy puree of sweet roasted corn with a mound of huitlacoche (corn mushrooms) and tangy sour cream floating on top. The hearty soup was almost a meal in itself.
Never one to stop at soup, however, I also ordered a poblano chile quesadilla and a side of beans and rice. Although La Palapa Rockola serves its quesadillas in flour tortillas, my request for a corn tortilla was cheerfully accommodated. The slightly crisp tortilla, cut in quarters, was chock-full of melted cheese and spicy peppers. I dipped it in salsa verde and pico de gallo. The refried black beans were sprinkled with melted queso anejo, and the tomato rice was fragrant with saffron. I was certainly glad I'd stopped in!
La Palapa Rockola: 359 6th Ave., (212) 243-6870.
Wednesday, February 09, 2005
Chocolate And Lavender
Lavender is known for its calming properties. According to a University of Miami study, just three minutes of lavender aromatherapy left participants feeling more relaxed. But if all you have is one minute, I'd suggest picking up a chocolate-lavender Tranquility bar. I found this Belgian chocolate bar at Zeytuna's downtown, and felt wonderful after just one bite!
New Tree USA chocolate bars are sold at several NYC gourmet groceries, including Zeytuna: 99 William St., (212) 742-2436, and A.L. Bazzini.
New Tree USA chocolate bars are sold at several NYC gourmet groceries, including Zeytuna: 99 William St., (212) 742-2436, and A.L. Bazzini.
Monday, February 07, 2005
Sarabeth's East
Pardon me a moment while I wipe the chocolate pudding off of my computer keyboard. As I type this, I'm spooning out every last chocolate shaving, mound of whipped cream and smidgen of chocolate custard from a glass jar (courtesy of Sarabeth's East). I made out like a bandit today at the famous bakery-restaurant, bringing home some chocolate cherry bread, brownies, chocolate souffle cake (do you sense a theme here?) and the above-mentioned pudding.
Honestly, I didn't intend to come away with so many goodies. My original intention was to indulge my rediscovered appetite for breakfast. I was already familiar with Sarabeth's excellent, naturally-thickened preserves, and I'd fantasized about spreading the strawberry-peach jam on a fresh hot scone.
I was amazed at the line of people waiting when I arrived around 1 p.m. (Sarabeth's only takes dinner reservations.) However, I had plenty of entertainment looking at the display case full of baked goods.
The wait was only ten minutes. Soon, after making that age-old decision between sweet and savory, I was enjoying a delightful breakfast. A scrumptious cherry-shallot dressing livened up some mixed greens. White truffle oil added an earthy complexity to a potato leek spinach soup. Three-pepper home fries were nicely browned, although the peppers and onions arrived in a heap over the potatoes (I prefer them interspersed). The smoked salmon eggs Benedict consisted of two Hollandaise-glazed jumbo eggs, which sat happily atop two homemade cornmeal-dusted English muffins amid a garnish of diced sweet red peppers and scallions. Raisin scones, which weren't served warmed, were nevertheless buttery and delicious. I slathered them with the strawberry-peach preserves.
The hearty meal held me until now, hence my voracious chocolate pudding consumption. Excuse me while I enjoy the last bite!
Sarabeth's (East) 1295 Madison Ave., (212) 410-7335. There are also locations at 423 Amsterdam Ave. and 945 Madison Ave., as well as a bakery at Chelsea Market.
Honestly, I didn't intend to come away with so many goodies. My original intention was to indulge my rediscovered appetite for breakfast. I was already familiar with Sarabeth's excellent, naturally-thickened preserves, and I'd fantasized about spreading the strawberry-peach jam on a fresh hot scone.
I was amazed at the line of people waiting when I arrived around 1 p.m. (Sarabeth's only takes dinner reservations.) However, I had plenty of entertainment looking at the display case full of baked goods.
The wait was only ten minutes. Soon, after making that age-old decision between sweet and savory, I was enjoying a delightful breakfast. A scrumptious cherry-shallot dressing livened up some mixed greens. White truffle oil added an earthy complexity to a potato leek spinach soup. Three-pepper home fries were nicely browned, although the peppers and onions arrived in a heap over the potatoes (I prefer them interspersed). The smoked salmon eggs Benedict consisted of two Hollandaise-glazed jumbo eggs, which sat happily atop two homemade cornmeal-dusted English muffins amid a garnish of diced sweet red peppers and scallions. Raisin scones, which weren't served warmed, were nevertheless buttery and delicious. I slathered them with the strawberry-peach preserves.
The hearty meal held me until now, hence my voracious chocolate pudding consumption. Excuse me while I enjoy the last bite!
Sarabeth's (East) 1295 Madison Ave., (212) 410-7335. There are also locations at 423 Amsterdam Ave. and 945 Madison Ave., as well as a bakery at Chelsea Market.
Sunday, January 30, 2005
Get Out Of Town!
Although I've been fending off the winter blues with numerous cups of cocoa, the latest subzero spell has drained me. Noticing my gloominess, my companion suggested that we rejuvenate ourselves with a bed-and-breakfast stay.
Armed with "Frommer's Wonderful Weekends from New York City" and the Internet, I set about finding an inn that was close to the LIRR. During my Web search, I happened upon the homepage of the Mill House Inn. I'd had a couple other places in mind for our excursion, but when I clicked on the Mill House breakfast menu, my mind was made up.
When we arrived, we were greeted by six canisters of cookies, a friendly dog named Corey, and Sylvia, the co-owner of the inn. Sylvia invited us to help ourselves to the cookies, and then led us into the dining room, which offered delicious hot cider, Mill House coffee and Bencheley tea. I accompanied my cider with homemade chocolate-chip and double chocolate-chip cookies. My mood was beginning to lighten (if not my weight). While I was munching, a guest sang the praises of the Mill House morning meal. "It's legendary," she said, "but you can only enjoy it if you're staying here. I'm meeting a real estate broker, and he asked me if he could pretend to be my guest just so he could have the breakfast." I couldn't wait for Sunday morning.
An invigorating scrub with honey-lemongrass soap and a soak in a lavender-scented whirlpool bath were a wonderful prelude to a nap under a goose-down comforter. (Later, we roused ourselves for an exquisite dinner at Della Femina. This restaurant is truly a subject for another post, but I must mention in passing their astonishing banana chocolate-chip croissant bread pudding. I'd never eaten a bread pudding made from croissants, and the flaky dough added extra butter to what was already a decadent treat.)
The next morning, we made sure to wake up by 10, as the brunch at Mill House is served only until 10:30. In the dining room, the four round wooden tables were festooned with poinsettias, and sunlight streamed through the windows. Smiling, I picked up my menu, to be met with the most daunting breakfast decision ever. I craved eggs, but did I want them scrambled with house-cured salmon, mascarpone, Vidalia onions and asparagus, or in egg nog form in the three-slice brioche French toast, or in a crawfish Andouille etoufee, or fried with chorizo, ancho, chipotle and pasillo peppers and tortillas, or how about in a five-cheese (mozzarella, grana padano, mascarpone, ricotta salata and Parmigiano Reggiano) frittata? And if I didn't want eggs, there were blueberry pancakes with Vermont maple syrup, grilled sandwiches, even three kinds of pizza!
With a bit of gracious guidance from Sylvia, we finally decided on the Irish oatmeal, green eggs and ham, scrambled eggs gratin, homefries and toast. We were first served a selection of fresh fruits with Champagne mint honey syrup (excellent over the blackberries).
Then it was time for... the best breakfast I can remember eating. Satisfyingly chewy Irish oatmeal arrived with a stripe of sweet berry compote and hot milk. My eggs gratin was a casserole of soft, Gruyere-gooey scrambled eggs, topped with snipped chives, shredded Parmigiano Reggiano and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs over a layer of caramelized onions and leeks, and then another layer of eggs. My companion's green eggs and ham, also served in a casserole, was quite generous with the Canadian bacon, spinach and Brie. The homemade sweet-tart ketchup was tasty, but the amazing Yukon Gold homefries needed no condiments. The crunchy-soft potato cubes were browned in olive oil and white wine and seasoned with garlic and thyme. And I couldn't even finish the hearty seven-grain toast and Vermont farm butter.
Our spirits lifted, and our bodies nutritionally fortified against any possible weather conditions, we packed up and made a note to return again soon.
The Mill House Inn: 31 North Main St., East Hampton, (631) 324-9766.
Armed with "Frommer's Wonderful Weekends from New York City" and the Internet, I set about finding an inn that was close to the LIRR. During my Web search, I happened upon the homepage of the Mill House Inn. I'd had a couple other places in mind for our excursion, but when I clicked on the Mill House breakfast menu, my mind was made up.
When we arrived, we were greeted by six canisters of cookies, a friendly dog named Corey, and Sylvia, the co-owner of the inn. Sylvia invited us to help ourselves to the cookies, and then led us into the dining room, which offered delicious hot cider, Mill House coffee and Bencheley tea. I accompanied my cider with homemade chocolate-chip and double chocolate-chip cookies. My mood was beginning to lighten (if not my weight). While I was munching, a guest sang the praises of the Mill House morning meal. "It's legendary," she said, "but you can only enjoy it if you're staying here. I'm meeting a real estate broker, and he asked me if he could pretend to be my guest just so he could have the breakfast." I couldn't wait for Sunday morning.
An invigorating scrub with honey-lemongrass soap and a soak in a lavender-scented whirlpool bath were a wonderful prelude to a nap under a goose-down comforter. (Later, we roused ourselves for an exquisite dinner at Della Femina. This restaurant is truly a subject for another post, but I must mention in passing their astonishing banana chocolate-chip croissant bread pudding. I'd never eaten a bread pudding made from croissants, and the flaky dough added extra butter to what was already a decadent treat.)
The next morning, we made sure to wake up by 10, as the brunch at Mill House is served only until 10:30. In the dining room, the four round wooden tables were festooned with poinsettias, and sunlight streamed through the windows. Smiling, I picked up my menu, to be met with the most daunting breakfast decision ever. I craved eggs, but did I want them scrambled with house-cured salmon, mascarpone, Vidalia onions and asparagus, or in egg nog form in the three-slice brioche French toast, or in a crawfish Andouille etoufee, or fried with chorizo, ancho, chipotle and pasillo peppers and tortillas, or how about in a five-cheese (mozzarella, grana padano, mascarpone, ricotta salata and Parmigiano Reggiano) frittata? And if I didn't want eggs, there were blueberry pancakes with Vermont maple syrup, grilled sandwiches, even three kinds of pizza!
With a bit of gracious guidance from Sylvia, we finally decided on the Irish oatmeal, green eggs and ham, scrambled eggs gratin, homefries and toast. We were first served a selection of fresh fruits with Champagne mint honey syrup (excellent over the blackberries).
Then it was time for... the best breakfast I can remember eating. Satisfyingly chewy Irish oatmeal arrived with a stripe of sweet berry compote and hot milk. My eggs gratin was a casserole of soft, Gruyere-gooey scrambled eggs, topped with snipped chives, shredded Parmigiano Reggiano and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs over a layer of caramelized onions and leeks, and then another layer of eggs. My companion's green eggs and ham, also served in a casserole, was quite generous with the Canadian bacon, spinach and Brie. The homemade sweet-tart ketchup was tasty, but the amazing Yukon Gold homefries needed no condiments. The crunchy-soft potato cubes were browned in olive oil and white wine and seasoned with garlic and thyme. And I couldn't even finish the hearty seven-grain toast and Vermont farm butter.
Our spirits lifted, and our bodies nutritionally fortified against any possible weather conditions, we packed up and made a note to return again soon.
The Mill House Inn: 31 North Main St., East Hampton, (631) 324-9766.
Tuesday, January 18, 2005
Four Reasons To Go Outside
As my hands turned red and my eyelashes threatened to freeze together, I chastised myself for venturing out into the Arctic weather. However, it was just then that I noticed a sign advertising four kinds of hot chocolate (orange, mint, praline and cinnamon)! The sign belonged to Manon Cafe, a cafe owned by Leonidas Chocolate.
I'm rather particular about hot chocolate. A regular cup of cocoa won't do... no powdered hydrogenated vegetable oil or flavored corn syrup for me! I need the real thing: melted squares of rich chocolate, smoothly blended with steamed milk. On several occasions, I have greatly enjoyed Leonidas' chocolate truffles, so I decided to try my luck with their hot chocolate.
I walked past the truffle display and up the steps to the cafe. Behind the counter, I saw what appeared to be bottles of flavored syrup. Disappointed, I asked the cashier if the syrups provided the flavors for the advertised hot chocolate.
"No!" he exclaimed. "Our hot chocolate is made only with squares of our pure Leonidas chocolate, blended with hot milk."
That clinched it. I ordered a large "Manon Mint" hot chocolate, which was thrillingly rich and creamy. The cup warmed my hands and the hot chocolate warmed my insides, making my trip outside thoroughly worthwhile.
Manon Cafe: 3 Hanover Square, (212) 422-9600.
I'm rather particular about hot chocolate. A regular cup of cocoa won't do... no powdered hydrogenated vegetable oil or flavored corn syrup for me! I need the real thing: melted squares of rich chocolate, smoothly blended with steamed milk. On several occasions, I have greatly enjoyed Leonidas' chocolate truffles, so I decided to try my luck with their hot chocolate.
I walked past the truffle display and up the steps to the cafe. Behind the counter, I saw what appeared to be bottles of flavored syrup. Disappointed, I asked the cashier if the syrups provided the flavors for the advertised hot chocolate.
"No!" he exclaimed. "Our hot chocolate is made only with squares of our pure Leonidas chocolate, blended with hot milk."
That clinched it. I ordered a large "Manon Mint" hot chocolate, which was thrillingly rich and creamy. The cup warmed my hands and the hot chocolate warmed my insides, making my trip outside thoroughly worthwhile.
Manon Cafe: 3 Hanover Square, (212) 422-9600.
Saturday, January 15, 2005
Centolire
My grandmother, who frequented Elio's for years, has recently grown tired of the noisy room, the haphazard service, and the crush of patrons waiting at the bar. I know how much she loves her red-sauce Italian, so I set about finding a replacement.
Centolire, also on the Upper East Side, is a perfect alternative. The restaurant, so large that it previously housed an elementary school, offers plenty of room in which to breathe. We've been several times now, and we love the magical upstairs dining room.
We knew we were in for a treat when we first stepped off of the elevator onto the second floor. In the center of the golden-lit room was a large wooden table on which sat a large wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, a prosciutto-slicer, a cutting board with slices of Italian salami, and a bowl of fresh cantaloupe. The well-appointed table and the cozy corner bar made us feel like we were in the dining room of a beloved friend.
The service was as welcoming as the atmosphere. Our gracious waiter brought by a complementary bowl of olive-oil drizzled peppered ricotta and a basket of focaccia. While we munched and deliberated over the menu, the table next to us enjoyed tableside preparations of truffled fettucini carbonara and Caesar salad.
Our chosen indulgences were the special three-bean greens soup, a wondrously garlicky clams in white wine sauce appetizer, breaded veal milanese (as big as a pizza) accompanied by sweet roasted baby Brussels sprouts, and a slightly browned pan-seared meaty organic striped bass. There was a slight delay with my entree, so the lovely manager, Gianfranco, threw in a free dessert: a thick slice of pound cake covered with creamy mascarpone mousse and a tumble of fresh strawberries! (We also loved the tiramisu. For those with foresight, a chocolate-mocha souffle is available if you order it at the beginning of the meal.) Not surprisingly, I am now a loyal patron.
Centolire: 1167 Madison Ave., (212) 734-7711.
Centolire, also on the Upper East Side, is a perfect alternative. The restaurant, so large that it previously housed an elementary school, offers plenty of room in which to breathe. We've been several times now, and we love the magical upstairs dining room.
We knew we were in for a treat when we first stepped off of the elevator onto the second floor. In the center of the golden-lit room was a large wooden table on which sat a large wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, a prosciutto-slicer, a cutting board with slices of Italian salami, and a bowl of fresh cantaloupe. The well-appointed table and the cozy corner bar made us feel like we were in the dining room of a beloved friend.
The service was as welcoming as the atmosphere. Our gracious waiter brought by a complementary bowl of olive-oil drizzled peppered ricotta and a basket of focaccia. While we munched and deliberated over the menu, the table next to us enjoyed tableside preparations of truffled fettucini carbonara and Caesar salad.
Our chosen indulgences were the special three-bean greens soup, a wondrously garlicky clams in white wine sauce appetizer, breaded veal milanese (as big as a pizza) accompanied by sweet roasted baby Brussels sprouts, and a slightly browned pan-seared meaty organic striped bass. There was a slight delay with my entree, so the lovely manager, Gianfranco, threw in a free dessert: a thick slice of pound cake covered with creamy mascarpone mousse and a tumble of fresh strawberries! (We also loved the tiramisu. For those with foresight, a chocolate-mocha souffle is available if you order it at the beginning of the meal.) Not surprisingly, I am now a loyal patron.
Centolire: 1167 Madison Ave., (212) 734-7711.
Thursday, January 13, 2005
Sympathy For The Kettle
Every so often, there's a newspaper article touting the health benefits of tea. Although I've yet to see a similar article about the benefits of truffles and pound cake, I quite enjoy the tea-flavored treats at Sympathy For The Kettle.
The funky East Village tearoom doesn't have much space in which to sit down, but it's chock-full of goodies like vanilla rooibos rose buttercream cake, lavender bars, rose truffles, orange apricot rooibos bread and bergamot-flecked, citrusy Earl Grey-iced pound cake. And if you want to bake your own goodies, there are over a hundred varieties of loose tea you can take home to experiment with!
Sympathy For The Kettle: 109 St. Marks Place, (212) 979-1650.
The funky East Village tearoom doesn't have much space in which to sit down, but it's chock-full of goodies like vanilla rooibos rose buttercream cake, lavender bars, rose truffles, orange apricot rooibos bread and bergamot-flecked, citrusy Earl Grey-iced pound cake. And if you want to bake your own goodies, there are over a hundred varieties of loose tea you can take home to experiment with!
Sympathy For The Kettle: 109 St. Marks Place, (212) 979-1650.
Wednesday, January 12, 2005
Lombardi's Original Pizza
Lespinasse and La Caravelle are long gone, but the coal-fired oven at Lombardi's Original Pizza keeps on chugging. I'm ashamed to admit that until last night, I hadn't yet visited this venerable pizzeria, which is the oldest in the United States. (The famous oven proudly sports the year "1905" in blue tile. Nostalgics will appreciate the old-time atmosphere and memorabilia; one could say that Lombardi's is a "slice" of old New York.)
Recently, Lombardi's underwent a renovation and expansion that will better accommodate its hordes of diners. Last night, my friends and I were soon seated at a round table in the newer front room.
I was immediately impressed with the toppings menu, which was more extensive than that of my local favorite, Nick's Pizza. The oven-roasted red peppers appealed to me, and the white pizza with clams sounded intriguing. We ordered the clam pizza and a traditional tomato pie, half pepperoni and half peppers.
The clam pizza was pleasantly garlicky, topped with breadcrumbs, Parmesan and a veritable avalanche of clams. Actually, I think that the amount of clams detracted from the pizza, and some of them were rubbery and overly chewy.
I then turned my attention to the more traditional pizza. In order to enthrall me, a red pizza must pass three tests: the sauce must not be too sweet, there should be a generous layer of fresh mozzarella, and, most important: the crust should be tasty enough to eat by itself.
The sauce definitely passed muster; the San Marzano tomatoes made it vibrantly flavorful. I also enjoyed the sweet red peppers. However, the cheese was missing some of the fresh, milky quality that I find at Nick's and Franny's. (Nick's Pizza has fresh mozzarella prepared especially for them every other day, and Franny's uses the unimpeachable Lioni's.) And when I looked at my companion's plate, large pieces of charred crust remained on it. (Some people gripe about the slightly charred crust at Nick's, but at Lombardi's, the charring was decidedly more pronounced.)
Still, the piping hot pizza was definitely enjoyable; I'd return just to try all the other toppings!
Lombardi's Original Pizza: 32 Spring St., (212) 941-7994.
Recently, Lombardi's underwent a renovation and expansion that will better accommodate its hordes of diners. Last night, my friends and I were soon seated at a round table in the newer front room.
I was immediately impressed with the toppings menu, which was more extensive than that of my local favorite, Nick's Pizza. The oven-roasted red peppers appealed to me, and the white pizza with clams sounded intriguing. We ordered the clam pizza and a traditional tomato pie, half pepperoni and half peppers.
The clam pizza was pleasantly garlicky, topped with breadcrumbs, Parmesan and a veritable avalanche of clams. Actually, I think that the amount of clams detracted from the pizza, and some of them were rubbery and overly chewy.
I then turned my attention to the more traditional pizza. In order to enthrall me, a red pizza must pass three tests: the sauce must not be too sweet, there should be a generous layer of fresh mozzarella, and, most important: the crust should be tasty enough to eat by itself.
The sauce definitely passed muster; the San Marzano tomatoes made it vibrantly flavorful. I also enjoyed the sweet red peppers. However, the cheese was missing some of the fresh, milky quality that I find at Nick's and Franny's. (Nick's Pizza has fresh mozzarella prepared especially for them every other day, and Franny's uses the unimpeachable Lioni's.) And when I looked at my companion's plate, large pieces of charred crust remained on it. (Some people gripe about the slightly charred crust at Nick's, but at Lombardi's, the charring was decidedly more pronounced.)
Still, the piping hot pizza was definitely enjoyable; I'd return just to try all the other toppings!
Lombardi's Original Pizza: 32 Spring St., (212) 941-7994.
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